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Joy of Beach Cooking
The Editors | Photo: Courtesy Images | July 31, 2013
Julia Child once said, “Learn how to cook, try new recipes, learn from your mistakes, be fearless, and above all have fun.” With that adage in mind, we asked seven of the most celebrated chefs we could find—from Daniel Boulud and Eric Ripert to Tom Colicchio and Claudia Fleming—to share their quintessential summer recipes. Dig in.
Daniel Boulud’s Tai Snapper Ceviche with Persian Cucumber, Tapioca Pearls and Dill Oil
For Tai Snapper Ceviche
½ cup kosher or rock salt
¼ cup sugar
Finely grated zest of two lemons and two limes
2 tsp. toasted, ground caraway seeds
2 4-oz. boneless, skinless fillets fresh snapper (tai snapper preferred)
Juice of ½ lemon
1 Tbsp. olive oil
Salt and pepper
Combine kosher or rock salt, sugar, both zests and caraway seeds in shallow dish. Add fish and coat on all sides with mixture. Cover and refrigerate 40 minutes. Remove fish from cure, rinse, pat dry and cut into ½-inch cubes. Cover and chill. When ready to serve, season fish with remaining ingredients.
For Dill Caraway Oil
2 bunches of fresh dill
1 tsp. toasted, ground caraway seeds
½ cup olive oil
Bring large pot of salted water to boil. Place bowl of ice water to side. Line fine-mesh sieve with coffee filter and place over a bowl. Boil dill 1 minute, remove with slotted spoon and chill in ice water; squeeze dry. Place dill in blender with caraway seeds and olive oil; puree on high speed until smooth and completely blended. Immediately pour into lined sieve; transfer to refrigerator to strain at least 1 hour. Reserve oil chilled.
For Bread Chips
¼ loaf unsliced white bread,
1 tsp. ground caraway seeds
Salt and ground white pepper
Heat oven to 300F. Trim crust from bread to make 4-inch square. Slice bread with electric deli slicer or very sharp serrated knife into six paper-thin squares. Lightly brush parchment-lined baking sheet with olive oil. Place bread squares on baking sheet in one layer and sprinkle evenly with ground caraway and pinch of salt and pepper. Lightly brush another piece of parchment paper with olive oil and place oil-side down on bread. Top with another baking sheet to keep bread flat. Bake 10 minutes until crisp but not browned.
For Caraway Cream
½ cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp. toasted caraway seeds
Salt and ground white pepper
In small saucepan over medium heat, bring cream and caraway to simmer; remove from heat and cover. Steep at room temperature 30 minutes, then strain through fine sieve and discard seeds. Chill and season with salt and pepper. When ready to serve, whip to stiff peaks.
For Cucumber Broth
2 English cucumbers, chopped
½ stalk celery, chopped
3 leaves fresh mint, chopped
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. white balsamic vinegar
1 tsp. cornstarch
Salt and ground white pepper
Puree cucumber, celery, mint, olive oil and vinegar in blender on high speed until smooth. In small saucepan, whisk ½ cup puree with cornstarch; bring to simmer to thicken. Return to blender and puree to combine. Pass through fine sieve and season to taste with Tabasco, salt and pepper. Reserve chilled in sauce pitcher.
For Tapioca Pearls
2 cups water
2 Tbsp. tapioca pearls
In small saucepan, bring water to a boil. Add tapioca and simmer until cooked and translucent, about 20 minutes. Strain and reserve tapioca pearls.
4 red breakfast radishes
1 watermelon radish, peeled and
6 baby Japanese cucumbers with
2 sprigs dill, picked
1 oz. micro greens
Thinly slice 2 breakfast radishes, julienne 1 and finely dice remaining. Freeze 6 wide-rim pasta or soup bowls. When ready to serve, brush inside of bowls up to the rims evenly with dill caraway oil. Divide tai snapper ceviche on bottom and garnish with some sliced breakfast and diced watermelon radishes, 1 baby cucumber and tapioca pearls. Top each serving with bread chip and place spoonful of caraway cream on top. Garnish each bowl with dill and micro greens. Pour cucumber broth into bowls at table so as not to soften bread, filling bowl from side to reach 2/3 way up fish. Serve chilled.
Eric Ripert’s Chicken Paillard with Tomatoes, Fennel and Olives
1 cup diced seeded peeled tomatoes
¾ cup thinly sliced fennel
½ cup green olives, pitted and sliced
½ cup minced shallots
¼ cup pine nuts, toasted
¼ cup raisins, plumped in
dry white wine
2 Tbsp. capers
4 thyme sprigs, leaves removed
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ cup olive oil, divided
Fine sea salt and freshly ground
4 skinless boneless chicken breasts, butterflied and lightly pounded flat
3 Tbsp. fresh basil chiffonade
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh Italian parsley
Preheat the oven to 450F.
Toss the tomatoes, fennel, green olives, shallots, pine nuts, raisins, capers, thyme leaves and garlic in a mixing bowl. Drizzle most of the olive oil over the vegetables and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Season the chicken breasts on both sides with salt and pepper. Place the chicken in a single layer on a large baking dish. Cover the chicken with the tomato mixture and drizzle the remaining olive oil over and around the chicken. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Sprinkle the basil and parsley over the chicken and serve immediately.
Tom Colicchio’s Vegetable Ragu with Farm Egg and Consommé
For the Eggs
4 of the best quality farm eggs you can find
In a small pot big enough for one egg at a time, add 3 inches of water and a dash of white vinegar. Bring to a simmer. First, crack each egg into its own small bowl. Slide one egg at a time from the small bowl into the simmering water. Let simmer until egg is soft-poached, about 1 minute. As eggs finish, keep them in a warm spot on the stove in a small bowl. You can rewarm them in a little consommé before you plate.
For the Toast
1 baguette, cut into ¼-inch-thick pieces on a bias so they are at a long angle. Grill the toasts and rub with a peeled garlic clove.
For the Vegetables
2 tomatoes, small diced
8 baby carrots, peeled, cut
into small rounds
½ cup green fresh chickpeas, removed from pod
2 baby leeks, washed and cut across into thin rounds
½ cup English peas, peeled
10 snow peas, cleaned and
cut in half
10 sugar snap peas, cleaned and string removed
10 asparagus spears, washed, peeled and cut into 1-inch lengths
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt the water heavily. Set up a large bowl full of ice water. Individually boil each type of vegetable to be blanched till tender, remove from pot and shock in ice water till completely cool. Keep all vegetables separate until ready to use.
For the Consommé
2 quarts of good quality chicken stock (preferably homemade), put in a pot to simmer and reduce the volume by half, set aside to cool
4 egg whites
1 stick celery
1 large carrot, peeled
1 onion rough cut into chunks
1 tsp. tomato paste
5 basil leaves
10 sprigs tarragon
Whisk egg whites in a metal bowl until they form medium peaks. Set aside. In a food processor, pulse the celery, carrots and onions until they are chopped but not pureed. Fold the vegetables and tomato paste into the egg whites. In a pot, add mixture to cooled reduced stock and stir to mix together. Turn on pot and bring to a simmer.
All ingredients will float to the top to form a “raft.” As soon as pot simmers, turn it down to its lowest setting on the burner and let sit for 45 minutes. Simmer very slowly. Set up a strainer lined with cheesecloth or clean dish towel, add the basil and tarragon leaves to this setup. As you ladle the liquid over the herbs it will make the consommé aromatic. Slowly ladle liquid into the strainer, being very careful not to agitate the raft. Season liquid as needed with salt.
To Plate the Dish
Heat diced tomatoes and blanched vegetables in the consommé in a small pot. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Separately reheat the eggs in a little hot broth.
Start by ladling the vegetables and consommé into the serving bowls, enough for 1 serving each. Top each bowl with an egg. Add sea salt and black pepper on the egg as garnish. Serve toast on side.
Alain Ducasse’s Sheep’s Curd, Fig and Honey Tartines
Yields 4 tartines
Toast 4 slices of multigrain bread in the toaster. Drop 1 tablespoon of sheep’s curd (4 tablespoons required in total) on each one without spreading it. Sprinkle a pinch of mignonette pepper over. Strip the leaves off a small sprig of thyme and a small sprig of rosemary and distribute them over each tartine. Cut 8 fresh figs into 3 slices each and arrange on each tartine. On each one, drizzle a teaspoon of mountain honey (4 tablespoons required in total) and a splash of olive oil. Then cut ¾ oz. of Ossau-Iraty cheese into slivers with vegetable peeler and distribute over each tartine. Serve immediately.
Laurent Tourondel’s Grilled Rib Eye with Green Tomato Chimichurri & Balsamic Radicchio
Grilled Green Tomato Chimichurri
5 medium green tomatoes
1 Tbsp. plus ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
½ cup chopped cilantro
½ cup chopped parsley
2 Tbsp. finely chopped red onion
1 tsp. red pepper flakes
1 tsp. finely chopped garlic
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
Heat grill to medium-high heat. Slice green tomatoes into ½-inch-thick slices. Brush slices with 1 tablespoon olive oil and grill until well-charred on each side, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Once tomatoes are cool enough to handle cut them into a large dice and place in a medium-size mixing bowl. Add all remaining chimichurri ingredients to the tomatoes and mix until well combined. Set aside.
¹³ cup lemon juice
½ tsp. red pepper flakes
½ cup balsamic vinegar
2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. ground black pepper
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. honey
1 medium head of radicchio, cut into 8 wedges, core intact
Mix the lemon juice, red pepper flakes, vinegar, salt, pepper, olive oil and honey in a medium-size mixing bowl. Place the radicchio in a shallow baking dish and pour marinade over the top. Allow to marinate for 15 minutes.
Remove radicchio, reserving the marinade, and grill until crispy, about 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Remove from heat and place on a serving platter. Drizzle with reserved marinade and keep warm.
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
3 rib eye steaks (preferably dry aged), 30 to 40 oz. each and 2 inches thick
2 Tbsp. fine sea salt
2 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper
Brush the butter on both sides of the steaks and season with the fine sea salt and pepper. Cook the steaks, 7 to 10 minutes on each side until medium rare. To check for doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer in the thickest part of the meat. The temperature reading should be 130F to 135F for medium rare. Transfer the steak to a cutting board and allow to rest 10 to 12 minutes.
Cut rib eye into 1-inch-thick slices. Serve with chimichurri sauce and grilled radicchio on the side.
Todd English’s Soy Skirt Steak with Sweet Corn Two Ways
Ginger Skirt Steak Marinade
2 8-oz. skirt steaks
1 cup soy sauce
½ cup of balsamic vinegar
¼ cup of brown sugar (tightly packed)
¼ cup of Worcestershire sauce
¼ cup of sesame oil
3 Tbsp. chopped fresh ginger
1 Tbsp. of Sriracha sauce
3 cloves of chopped garlic
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper to taste
*Optional substitute 1 chopped jalapeño pepper for Sriracha sauce.
Whisk together first 8 ingredients (following skirt steaks) and 1 cup water in a large shallow dish or zip-top plastic freezer bag; add steak. Cover or seal, and chill 2 to 6 hours.
Preheat grill to 350F to 400F (medium-high) heat. Remove steak from marinade, discarding marinade. Let stand at room temperature 15 minutes. Sprinkle with desired amount of salt and pepper.
Grill steak, covered with grill lid, 8 minutes (4 minutes each side) or to desired degree of done-ness. Let stand 10 minutes. Cut steak diagonally across the grain into thin slices.
Sweet Corn Raita
4 ears sweet corn, shucked
2 minced jalapeños (veins removed)
1 bunch cilantro
1 red onion
1½ cup Greek yogurt
¼ cup lime juice
Zest of 3 limes
Salt and pepper to taste
Cut corn off cob and place in bowl. Fold in all remaining ingredients and place in refrigerator.
Grilled Mexican Sweet Corn
6 ears fresh corn, shucked
and husks removed
½ cup of mayonnaise
1 small jalapeño pepper,
seeded and minced
1 cup of feta cheese, crumbled
Preheat grill to 350F to 400F degrees (medium-high) heat. Stir together mayonnaise and jalapeño pepper in a small bowl. Place cheese on a shallow plate.
Grill corn, covered with grill lid, 20 minutes or until done, turning every 4 to 5 minutes. Generously spread corn with mayonnaise mixture. Roll corn in cheese. Serve immediately.
Claudia Fleming’s Rose Meringues with Summer Berries
For the Rose Meringues
Yields 28 servings
4 large egg whites
1½ cups confectioners’ sugar
½ to 1½ tsp. rose water
(or to taste)
Preheat the oven to 200F. Line 2 baking sheets with nonstick liners or parchment paper. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until they hold soft peaks. Slowly add the confectioners’ sugar and beat for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the mixture is very stiff. Add the rose water ½ teaspoon at a time to taste.
Drop tablespoon amounts of batter onto the baking sheets, leaving 3 inches of space between each. Using the back of the spoon, smooth each meringue into a flat disk. Bake for 2 to 2½ hours, or until the meringues can be easily lifted off the liners and are completely dried out. Cook thoroughly and store the meringues in an airtight container for up to 2 days. They can be re-crisped in a 200F oven if necessary.
For the Goat Yogurt-Rose Mousse
2 cups unflavored goat’s milk yogurt or plain yogurt
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. heavy cream
½ tsp. unflavored powdered gelatin
¾ cup confectioners’ sugar
½ tsp. rose water, or to taste
Line a sieve with a double layer of cheesecloth and suspend it over a bowl or sink. Place the yogurt in the lined sieve and let drain for 30 minutes.
Measure out 1 cup of the drained yogurt and save the remaining few tablespoons for another purpose. Place the yogurt in a medium bowl and whisk until smooth.
In a small saucepan, combine 2 tablespoons of the cream and the gelatin. Let sit for 5 minutes. Place the pan over low heat and gently stir until the gelatin is dissolved, about 5 minutes. Strain the gelatin mixture through a fine sieve into the yogurt and whisk well.
Using an electric mixer, whip the remaining cup of cream until it thickens. Whisk in the sugar and rose water. Whisk one-third of the cream into the yogurt mixture, then fold in the remaining cream in two additions. Transfer the mixture to a serving bowl and chill the mousse until set, at least 3 hours.
For the Raspberry Sorbet
6 cups fresh raspberries
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. sugar, or to taste
In a large bowl, toss together the raspberries and 6 Tbsp. of the sugar, or more to taste. Let the mixture rest for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine the remaining ¾ cup of sugar with ½ cup water and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer the mixture, stirring, until the sugar dissolves, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.
Transfer the berries to a food processor or blender and puree until very smooth. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing hard on the solids; discard the solids.
In a large bowl, whisk together the raspberry puree and sugar syrup. Cover and chill until cold, at least 3 hours, or overnight. Freeze in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Place a meringue disk in the center of each shallow bowl and cover with fresh berries (such as strawberries, raspberries and blackberries). Spoon a dollop of mousse over the berries, then repeat with another meringue layer, more berries, and more mousse, then finish with a meringue on top. Scatter more berries around the meringue napoleon and space three tiny scoops of sorbet evenly around the bowl.