Art Star

Having never watched Oprah (for whose eponymous host he was once personal chef), never logged onto oprah.com (for which Smith edits a monthly column) and never read O: The Oprah Magazine (to which he contributes articles), my knowledge of chef Art Smith has been limited. My ignorance recently proved beneficial, for Southern Art and Bourbon Bar—Smith’s new restaurant inside the InterContinental Buckhead Atlanta—far exceeded my expectations, establishing itself as one of the finest Southern joints in town.

Given Smith’s credentials as the chef of “I’m Every Woman” Winfrey, you’ll be surprised how masculine Southern Art is. Part of a complete remodeling of the InterContinental Buckhead, the restaurant includes the handsome Bourbon Bar, designed to be “a revered place where the weary traveler can go to be revived by a well-made tonic or two and perhaps learn a bit about the local culture through its indigenous food and drinks,” Smith says.

To that end, bar manager Brian Stanger stocks more than 50 different bourbons, ranging from Evan Williams to 16-year-aged Black Mable Hill Limited Edition (at $52 a glass), as well as nearly a dozen brands of rye and six variations of moonshine.

He also crafts cocktails with a decidedly Southern flavor, from a mint julep to a surprisingly smooth moonshine Manhattan. But our favorite was the Brown Derby, a mixture of Evan Williams single barrel bourbon, grapefruit juice and honey that provided for perfect sipping.

The restaurant is hardly the sort of thing you’d expect to find inside a hotel. Moving past a massive ham bar with a variety of delectable meats hanging from hooks, guests enter through striped curtains into a vividly colored space. Booths are striped with subdued Mardi Gras colors; chairs resemble sleek wooden birdcages; huge paintings of congested downtown traffic and the Fabulous Fox Theatre hang from the ceiling; and carpets boast recipes for peanut brittle. Only the massive stained-glass chandeliers and wall sconces remain from Au Pied de Cochon.

Smith, who grew up in Jasper—just outside Valdosta—recalled childhood days when he and his family came to Atlanta to shop in “the big city,” in an era where the biggest hotel was The Ritz-Carlton and the fanciest restaurant was Houston’s. With Executive Chef Anthony Gray, formerly of High Cotton in Charleston (but raised in Macon), Smith has created a culinary gem that blends sophistication with a welcome dose of whimsy—its menu boldly bringing Southern tradition into the 21st century.

For this native Georgia boy, it also brings back remarkable memories. The artisanal Southern hams of the ham bar are so full of robust flavor, I was reminded of the time we slaughtered my aunt’s pigs and divided the meat. The rich, homey taste of Addie Mae’s soup—chicken and dumplings made of pappardelle, with fresh thyme and Tabasco—were a healthier version of a childhood staple. The North Carolina catfish took me back to an all-you-can-eat seafood joint on Lake Hartwell… though Southern Art’s version is sautéed rather than fried and served with amazing Anson Mills cheddar grits.

Then there are the dishes that simply defy comparison, such as Georgia white shrimp and grits served with smoky Benton’s bacon, hominy, butter beans and a spiced tomato broth reduced with shrimp shells… easily the best I’ve ever tasted. Or the melt-in-your-mouth-tender crispy pork belly, which was served over Johnny cakes and a soft poached egg with braised peanuts and a smoky tomato jus. Even simple side dishes, such as the sweet potato casserole, topped with meringue-style marshmallows and candied pecans, elicited hallelujahs of appreciation. Don’t even get me started on Meredith Miller’s delectable desserts, including an incredible 12-layer red velvet cake.

In the end, Southern Art is a restaurant that easily lives up to its name, as well as its chef-owner’s reputation. By simultaneously honoring and updating time-honored regional traditions, Art Smith and Anthony Gray have created a genuine masterpiece of sweet Southern soul.

3315 Peachtree Road, 404.946.9070, southernart.com