Makoto in Bal Harbour Shops; Photography By Michael Pisarri

To Live & Dine In Miami

by Riki Altman, Margit Bisztray, Virginia Gil, Jen Karetnick & Luis R. Rigual | Miami magazine | June 22, 2011

All in the name of hard work. All for you. The specials are in. From top chefs and best new restaurants to progressive cocktails and off-the-charts desserts, here are 50 reasons why Miami dining is tops.

 

KITCHEN COMMANDOS: CHEFS WE LOVE
Joel Huff, Azul

Californian Joel Huff surfed into Miami’s dining scene earlier this year, replacing the much beloved Clay Conley at Azul and introducing a menu comprised of modern American dishes with Asian influences and European techniques. Huff earned his toque by working with José Andrés, Ludric Le Preve and Nori Sugie, so we’re pretty sure he’ll develop a loyal following in short order. With dishes like Eggs, Bacon & Toast, which incorporates meat from a suckling pig cooked for 12 hours, tempura duck egg, black truffle pomme puree, speck emulsion and red wine jus, we’re already fans. Mandarin Oriental, 500 Brickell Key Drive, Miami, 305.913.8358

Philippe Ruiz, Palme d’Or
Philippe Ruiz has been nominated for the James Beard Best Chef: South category plenty. He’s probably over it, but our affection for the French dynamo with the flair for island flavors is constant. Biltmore Hotel, 1200 Anastasia Ave., Coral Gables, 305.913.3201

Sergio Sigala, Cecconi’s
We can’t get enough of the sophisticated Venetian vibe Sergio Sigala has brought to our shores. Anything on his menu with seppioline (cuttlefish) needs to be seriously considered. Soho Beach House, 4385 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, 786.507.7902

Kareem Anguin, The Oceanaire
Kareem Anguin flew below the radar for a while, waiting until diners started realizing a new toque had taken over The Oceanaire’s kitchen. The Jamaican chef has managed to get regulars to forget about pickled herring and beg for his tempura king crab instead. 900 S. Miami Ave., Miami, 305.372.8862

Paula DaSilva, 1500˚
Obviously Paula DaSilva didn’t get enough heat from her stint on Hell’s Kitchen because some months back the Brazilian chef packed her bags and moved here. Now leading the charge at 1500˚ at the Eden Roc, her farm-to-table concept menus are aflame with creativity. 4525 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, 305.674.5594

E. Michael Reidt, Area 31
Boston native E. Michael Reidt’s return to Miami signaled another fresh start for Area 31 and the restaurant’s sustainable seafood mantra, but it’s Reidt’s innovation in the kitchen that has really made us take notice. Epic Hotel, 270 Biscayne Boulevard Way, Miami, 305.424.5234

 

HELLO GORGEOUS: BEST NEW RESTAURANTS
Makoto
Not every restaurateur is gracious enough to designate his latest establishment for his chef. Then again, not every restaurateur is Stephen Starr, whose surname says it all. Starr’s 20th eatery is a showplace for Makoto Okuwa. Don’t question why or how we got so lucky. Just be grateful that we get to appreciate Makoto’s stellar preparations, which range from chicken meatballs topped with a poached quail egg to fried rice with everything Kobe beef or foie gras. For both eye and taste bud gratification, order any of the sushi or sashimi options, gorgeously composed on the plate and so fresh you won’t dare taint them with soy. Bal Harbour Shops, 9700 Collins Ave., Bal Harbour, 305.864.8600

Peacock Garden Café
How can a garden restaurant with a daily “soup calendar” not be immediately appealing? This entry from the Jaguar Hospitality Group is a relaxed establishment built to celebrate Miami and keep culinary trends at bay with dishes like Munroe’s Vintage bone-in rib eye, served with caramelized potatoes. 2889 McFarlane Road, Coconut Grove, 305.774.3332

Sustain Restaurant + Bar
At Sustain, every item—from farmer Teena Borek’s tomatoes to goat cheese maker Hani Khouri’s fromage blanc—is considered in its best possible light, and then presented to the diner by Executive Chef Alejandro Piñero in an unbeatable dish. His fried chicken is a must. 3252 N.E. First Ave., Miami, 305.424.9079

Truluck’s Seafood, Steak & Crab House
Specializing in crabs as much as it does in steaks and chops, Truluck’s is a Capital Grille for a less-formal generation. That’s because it’s hard to hang onto your dignity when the gigantic Dutch Harbor red king crab legs are presented, eliciting gasps from neigboring diners. For dessert, go for the carrot cake, proof that classic doesn’t mean boring. 777 Brickell Ave., Miami, 305.579.0035

Pied à Terre
Tucked (and we use that word literally) inside the Cadet Hotel, dining at the 30-seat Pied à Terre is as intimate as it gets. But this David (across from Casa Tua’s Goliath) doesn’t need square footage to make its point. The kitchen is helmed by former Clay Conley protégé Andrew Balick, a talent to watch, whose fondness for backward baseball caps belies his culinary sophistication. We’re talking asparagus and cauliflower cream with sea scallop and Ossetra caviar, sous-vide octopus with fregola salad and fennel-dusted softshell crab with yellowtail carpaccio. 1701 James Ave., Miami Beach, 305.531.4533

The Royal at the Raleigh
We admit to a certain penchant for alliteration, but that’s not why The Royal at the Raleigh caught our eye. Rather, it’s the fare (Chicken Under a Brick with pancetta and smoked apple), which has comfort food written all over it. In the hands of chef John DeLucie, The Royal’s flavors complement the Deco vibe of the restaurant. 1775 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, 305.534.6300

Haven
With its molecular cocktails and video walls, Haven might be dismissed as smoke and mirrors, yet its hipster demeanor shouldn’t belie its pedigree. Chef Todd Erickson’s menu is well thought out (the duck slider topped with quail egg is a treat) and even nods to local culture by including a guava-cheese ice cream inspired by Cuban pastelitos. 1237 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach, 305.987.8885

db Bistro Moderne
Spot-on service, impeccably sourced ingredients, sophisticated cooking from chef Jarrod Verbiak that tantalizes the technique-starved taste buds of Miamians, a Euro-heavy wine list that offers both bargains and blowouts: db is not only what we’ve been waiting for, but also what we deserve. JW Marriott Marquis, 255 Biscayne Blvd. Way, Miami, 305.421.8800

The Local Craft Food & Drink
Thanks to Consulting Chef Alberto Cabrera, the glam at this gastropub is in the fare: high-end grub—fried clam bellies with pimenton aioli—that overshadows everything else. Almost. The craft beers and wines, chalked on the blackboard, are a delight to peruse, order and quaff. 150 Giralda Ave., Coral Gables, 305.648.5687

Symcha’s
A cross between a steak house and a vintage continental eatery, this restaurant should have South-of-Fifth establishments shaking in their boots. The menu from Joshua Wahler (who has stints at Gramercy Tavern NY and Nobu LA under his apron), works all angles: high-quality, carefully sourced ingredients and rich sauces. Highlights like the Stone Farms beef tenderloin carpaccio with pickled oyster mushrooms and the Challah If You Hear Me bread pudding scream imagination, the likes of which we haven’t seen in a while. 22 Washington Ave., Miami Beach, 305.604.0000

 

TABLE FOR ONE: RESTOS FOR SOLO DINING
River Seafood & Oyster Bar

Depending on the time of day, the River Seafood & Oyster Bar is either bustling with banker types or couples piling in for the popular daily happy hour, yet its ample bar area is welcoming should you find yourself rolling solo. The menu agenda here is seafood, all kinds, but especially an assortment of oyster specials that feature mollusks flown in daily from all over the country and served west to east. Pull up a chair at the counter and watch shuckers do their thing—a show in itself whether you’re indulging in the slimy delicacies or not. 650 S. Miami Ave., Miami, 305.530.1915

La Sandwicherie Brickell
There’s nothing like the wraparound counter packed with regulars at La Sandwicherie Brickell to make you feel like you’re with a bunch of friends. Besides dining companions, carbs are the appeal here, with a slew of meat, cheese, and veggie sandwiches served on toasted French baguettes, croissants, rolls and other flaky options. 34 S.W. Eighth St., Miami, 305.374.9852

Crazy About You
You’d be insane not to go for the prix-fixe meal option that includes an appetizer and entrée, which makes for an indulgent meal without the shame of over-ordering—at Crazy About You, you can choose from three price categories tiered by ingredients (churrasco and Kobe beef burgers are among the most expensive) and wines priced to guzzle. The restaurant also boasts killer views of Biscayne Bay, so lingering over multiple courses is not only expected, but also encouraged. 1155 Brickell Bay Drive, 305.377.4442

Rosa Mexicano
With vast square footage at the front of the restaurant devoted to high-tops and bar space, Rosa Mexicano embraces solitary diners. So does the menu, which advocates snack eating by way of dishes like the guacamole (prepared tableside), shrimp and tuna ceviche, crab turnovers and tortilla soup. Wash it all down with a pomegranate margarita as you watch life go by on Lincoln or catch a game on the giant screens above the bar. 1111 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach, 305.695.1005

Spartico
Chef Jonathan Eismann’s Spartico is your ticket to a Roman holiday for one. The menu features traditional Italian sandwiches and antipasti, but the focus is on the selection of 12-inch, Roman-style pizzas. Each day, the dough, made from seasonally harvested wheat, is rolled out fresh, and the pizzas are then topped with seasonal ingredients before they’re baked in an Ambrogi wood-burning oven. Mayfair Hotel, 3000 Florida Ave., Miami, 305.779.5113


SECOND TIME AROUND: BIGGEST COMEBACKS
The Forge 
The shutting down of The Forge after 40 years to “reinvent” itself sounded like a sure way to get burned. Close for a year? Spend $10 million? Owner Shareef Malnik said yes, hired Executive Chef Dewey LoSasso and shook out the old so he could bring in the new: pale wood, accents of lilac and gold and a more modern, less stodgy atmosphere. The menu maintains its fat steaks and legendary soufflés, but now humors them with “Savory Snacks” like salmon croquettes with guava sauce, “Starts” like a single, half-pound shrimp cocktail, and “Sides” that include sautéed fava beans with wasabi caviar and Plugrá butter. All in all, a job well done. 432 41st St., Miami Beach, 305.538.8533

Las Vacas Gordas
For 15 years, Argentinean steakhouse Las Vacas Gordas (“The Fat Cows”) delighted diners with signature dishes like the parrilla-grilled enrollada (rolled steak) and the bife de chorizo (sirloin strip steak) and a well-curated wine list. But the venue itself was trapped in the wrong body (modest, dark, brick everywhere). Earlier this year, the restaurant revealed a makeover that includes a face-lift (sparkly tiles, French doors), a wardrobe change (cowhide banquettes, stainless steel), and a new gregarious attitude (spotlights, theater kitchen). 933 Normandy Drive, Miami Beach, 305.867.1717

Cantina Beach
Despite a tolerance for heat, a fire at Cantina Beach temporarily closed the place until the beginning of this year. We’re happy to report that the Mexican phoenix has risen from the ashes with coral and turquoise lounge cushions, a new, soaring palapa roof, and a refreshed menu from Chef Andres Parlange of Chiapas, Mexico. A “guacamolier” prepares the en molcajete guacamoles (pineapple and crispy pork skin, mango and pomegranate) tableside, and the country’s only “tequilier” offers more information than you’ll ever need to know on the 85 tequilas available to sip or mix. The Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne, 455 Grand Bay Drive, Key Biscayne, 305.365.4286

Blade Sushi
In the alternate universe that is the Fontainebleau, fantasy bounces off the walls. Yet, for a while there, if you wanted a sushi roll, you had to contain yourself. Now Blade has reopened in the space with Vida, and things are as they should be: complete with yellowtail tartare (in yuzu-miso sauce), octopus carpaccio and premium sakes. 4441 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, 877.326.7412

Caffé da Vinci
Bay Harbour favorite Caffé da Vinci is in the midst of its very own renaissance after a five-month renovation. Solid, traditional dishes like veal Parmigiana and linguine vongole make a nice contrast to edgy, somewhat-molecular statements like the fried mango sticks and the strawberry caviar decking a baby greens salad. As if breakfast, lunch and dinner weren’t enough to please its clientele, the eatery’s new gold and red lounge offers a small plate menu and two happy hours. No wonder Mona Lisa is smiling. 1009 Kane Concourse, Bay Harbor Island, 305.861.8166


CHEERS TO THAT: MIXOLOGY MASTERS
The Lounge at Gotham Steak

Proving that a steak house can relax if you just serve it a few stiff drinks, the new Lounge at Gotham Steak offers low-slung couches, a DJ four days a week, and its own menu, but it’s the cocktails that are the stars here, and top billing goes to the Bella (Van Gogh vodka, melon, watermelon, mint and lime), the Cucumber (Hendrick’s gin, cucumber essence, mint, lime and cane nectar), and the Star Sapphire (Aperol and anise-infused cane nectar). Hmm, let’s think about this one: Alfred Portale’s grand vision scaled down to a more casual experience? We lift our cocktail glasses with glee. Fontainebleau Hotel, 4441 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, 877.326.7412

Carillon Lounge at Canyon Ranch
Always bent on improving our wellness, Canyon Ranch scores points for its newest tactic: The Carillon Lounge. The Space Age 1950s décor, biodynamic wines and menu (including grass-fed beef burgers, Italian chicken sausages and baked artichoke fries) make a strong case, but the ultimate persuasion here are the cocktails with antioxidants (the Veev-A-Mojito for a dose of açai berry) and cleansing properties (the Melon Ball). Here’s to your health—in more ways than one. 6801 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, 305.514.7000

Cafeina
Sure, there’s a “Hangover” section on the brunch menu here (fried eggs in tomato sauce work best), but why rush so early in the morning? Particularly when a Bloody Mary is wheeled to you, tableside, like a first aid station, and you can doctor it up with vodka or gin and “healthy” extras like celery, pickled white asparagus and ripe cherry tomatoes. 297 N.W. 23rd St., Miami, 305.438.0792

Wynwood Kitchen & Bar
Giving creative geniuses their due, Wynwood Kitchen & Bar’s Artist Cocktails menu covers all taste bases. The Aiko is a composition of plum wine, ginger beer, lime and ginger. The Barry McGee is a mix of elderflower, bitters, strawberry and Prosecco. And the Shepard Fairey makes its case with vodka, black raspberry liquor and cranberry juice. 2550 N.W. Second Ave., Miami, 305.722.8959

Asia de Cuba
The end of the workday is no one’s finest hour. We yearn for signs of a more perfect world. Happy Hour at Asia de Cuba at The Mondrian is a dream amidst the white fantasia of Dutch designer Marcel Wanders. His Alice in Wonderland décor sets the scene, but it’s Umut Kisa’s cocktails that help us reach nirvana. Order up the Millionaire Mojito with its splash of Champagne or the Jalapeño-Cilantro Margarita with just enough pineapple juice to soothe the burn and watch 9-to-5 troubles fade. 1100 West Ave., Miami Beach, 305.514.1940

Sugarcane Raw Bar Grill
Already a favorite of adventurous diners (pig ear in barbecue sauce) Sugarcane’s epicurean range covers cocktails too. For lovers of the farm-to-table approach, the Strawberry Balsamic makes magic out of Paradise Farms berries, vinegar, Svedka and lime juice. And for the vegetarians in the group (there’s always one), the Beet Mojito (native mint, Cruzan-infused beets) lends new meaning to the term “juice bar.” 3250 N.E. First Ave., Miami, 786.369.0353

Barú Urbano
Developed by Arturo Sighinolfi, director of mixology and spirits education at Southern Wine & Spirits, and striking that perfect balance between sweet and salty, Barú Urbano’s Amante Picante (cucumber, lemon, cilantro, Tabasco and tequila) won’t help you figure out the meaning of life or anything else, but it sure goes down easy. 1001 S. Miami Ave., Miami, 305.381.5901

DiLido Beach Club
Mixologist Ramsey Pimentel travels the country regularly to introduce patrons to his brand of cocktail culture, but from Friday through Sunday he shakes, stirs and mixes at the DiLido Beach Club exclusively. This guy is serious about his craft: he spends the morning prior to his shift gathering fresh herbs and making his own syrups from scratch. Since he came on board, beverage revenue at the hotel has increased by 30 percent. The Ritz-Carlton South Beach, 1 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach, 786.276.4000

SWEET SURRENDER: JUST DESSERTS DELIVERED
db Bistro Moderne
Daniel Boulud’s db Bistro Moderne has so many elements to recommend (that’s why it’s here twice), we don’t know where to start. But we do know how to end: with Pastry Chef Jerome Maure’s fantastic creations. Not that it’s easy to choose between his Alsatian rhubarb tart with a toasted strawberry marshmallow, vanilla crème brûlée and rhubarb sorbet or the coupe dulce de leche with carabe chocolate foam and caramelized macadamia-hot chocolate sauce. Even the delicious simplicity of the guy’s warm Madeleine cookies, sprinkled with just the right amount of powdered sugar, is irresistible. Ah, the sweet agony of dessert variety. JW Marriott Marquis, 255 Biscayne Boulevard Way, Miami, 305.421.8800 
 

KNR Restaurant Group 
Being born into the bakery business doesn’t mean you’re automatically a genius with sweets, but it sure seems to help. Take Antonio Bachour, the executive pastry chef for KNR Restaurant Group, whose creations are on the menus of Quattro, Sosta Pizzeria Enoteca and Soleá. The guy grew up kneading dough and mixing batter at his family’s panaderia in Puerto Rico, where he obviously picked up a thing or two. For proof, take a bite of his Pastiera Napoletana (ricotta tart, bitter orange sauce, vanilla bean gelato) at Quattro and thank the heavens for family-passed talent. Quattro, 1014 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach, 305.531.4833; Sosta, 1025 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach, 305.722.5454; Soleá, W South Beach, 2201 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, 305.938.3111

Bourbon Steak
Once upon a time Andrea Sans Araiza couldn’t decide whether to become a physician or a pastry chef. No wonder she brings so much chemistry (some call it sweet voodoo) to her work, referring to it as “an exact science.” The pastry chef’s warm, never overly sweet, fluffy beignet with a side of butterscotch pudding made with Macallan’s 18-year-old Scotch is exactly what the doctor ordered. Fairmont at Turnberry Isle, 19999 W. Country Club Drive, Aventura, 786.279.6600

Two Chefs
His dinner menu changes weekly. His dessert menu doesn’t change at all. Chef/owner Jan Jorgensen doesn’t see the point of having anything besides soufflés on his dessert menu when that’s all his patrons seem to want to order since he opened his doors in 1994. Among the highlights in his repertoire is the chocolate version with its “chocolate surprise” inside, a poof-and-sigh of a dessert oozing with cocoa excess. 8287 S. Dixie Highway, South Miami, 305.663.2100

Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink
It’s impossible to talk desserts in Miami without mentioning Pastry Chef Hedy Goldsmith at time-and-time-again favorite Michael’s. Perhaps you even caught her this spring on the Cooking Channel’s Unique Sweets as she took what The New York Times referred to as “marvels of texture and balance” on the road. Back home, one of her most irresistible creations is the Tangerine Creamsicle Pot de Crème with warm doughnuts and blackberry tarragon jam, a symphony of a dessert that’s one of Goldsmith’s greatest hits. 130 N.E. 40th St., Miami, 305.573.5550 

Fratelli Lyon
Fratelli Lyon in the Design District has got ambiance well covered. Who doesn’t like to dine on pasta amidst a modernist background of Italian design? The newest additions to the menu, however, are a far cry from the eye-catching aesthetics. Chef/owner Ken Lyon went simple with his new desserts—but far from simplistic. His Mousse di Cioccolate (dark and light chocolates heavenly combined) and Bunet (cacao, caramel and Amaretto flan) yield instant gratification—and at a much lower price point than that Lucite table that keeps catching your eye. 4141 N.E. Second Ave., Miami, 305.572.2901

Essensia Restaurant & Lounge
At this organic-centric restaurant, Executive Chef Frank Jeannetti takes full advantage of our local and seasonal products and turns gorgeous produce into gorgeous productions. He keeps that gaze just as intense on sweets as he does on starters and main courses. The results are that desserts like the Meyer lemon tart or strawberry panna cotta are a plucked-at-the-point-of-perfection package, and a powerful way to leave a lasting impression. The Palms Hotel & Spa, 3025 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, 305.908.5458

SushiSamba Dromo 
Diners know that with Pastry Chef Michelle Duran at the helm, the unexpected is often the norm. Earlier this year, she introduced a new dessert menu at SushiSamba Dromo that doesn’t hold back: cream puffs filled with azuki bean and green tea, panna cotta made with tofu, and sorbets in flavors like wasabi, sake with red shiso, and pisco sour with yuzu. A standing ovation for a woman who always manages to keep diners on their toes. 600 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach, 305.673.5337



LOOKS MATTER
You might know from trying it yourself that it’s hard enough to cook food to the right temperature, taste and texture—let alone make it look pretty. That’s why chefs who are as skilled with the skillet as they are with aesthetics are in such high demand. We raise a spatula to salute them and their stunning results… Douglas Rodriguez keeps seafood hues in mind when designing the artful ceviche dishes at De Rodriguez Cuba on Ocean (Hilton Bentley South Beach, 101-B Ocean Drive, Miami Beach, 305.672.6624), and his Maine lobster Thai version is as pretty as the proverbial picture. >> Pork belly becomes a sculptural composition in the hands of E. Michael Reidt at Area 31 (Epic Hotel, 270 Biscayne Blvd. Way, Miami, 305.424.5234). Reidt counterpoints the crispy, fatty pork against supple cocoa-crusted scallops, and finishes with a a smear of lightly sweet pear-parsnip puree. >> Klime Kovaceski used to thrill us at Crystal Café, his bastion of New Continental cuisine. Now he’s back with Trio on the Bay (1601 79th St. Causeway, North Bay Village, 305.866.1234) where the teriyaki-glazed salmon reclining over asparagus is a veritable color wheel, rivaling only the view for eye appeal. >> Conceptualized by Claude Troisgros, the attractive presentations at Blue Door Fish (The Delano, 1685 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, 305.674.6400) obviously include fish and crustaceans, but Troisgros proves his culinary talents best with one of the hardest sea creatures to wrestle into epicurean compliance: the octopus, which is caramelized with garlic, shallots and Dijon mustard, then partnered with a black olive potato salad. Looking good, baby.
 

WEST MEETS EAST
In a city where culinary trends are short-lived, Asian flavors are making their mark past the expected expiration date. American Noodle Bar (6730 Biscayne Blvd., Miami, 305.396.3269), an ultra-modern take on traditional Ramen joints, draws crowds with a make-your-own menu of assorted noodles, broths and add-ons, as well as inspired Asian-American dishes like the cheeseburger dumpling and Big Mama’s pork egg roll. >> At Chow Down Grill (9517 Harding Ave., Surfside, 305.397.8494), Chinese skews less takeout, more trimmed-down, with the help of seasonal produce, housemade sauces and fresh dumplings and egg rolls that are prepared daily. “[The food] isn’t what you’re used to but it’s the backbone of Chinese cooking,” says chef Joshua Marcus. Motivated by the public’s general misconception of Chinese food being either fried or doused in preservatives, Marcus devised a menu that reflects the essence of the Asian cuisine, but incorporated healthy, sustainable dishes, such as orange chicken made with fresh-squeezed orange juice. A South Beach location is slated for summer. >> For a coupling that marries Asian techniques with Latin and Spanish flavors rather than fusing them together, we turn to Pubbelly (1418 20th St., Miami Beach, 305.532.7555). Helmed by Managing Partner Andreas Schreiner and chefs Jose Mendin and Sergio Navarro, both SushiSamba and Nobu vets, the menu focuses on hearty, gastropub fare that reflects both chefs’ cultures (Puerto Rican and Spanish, respectively). “Think of going to eat at an Asian restaurant and you have a dish that’s so good you just want to soak up the broth with bread, only there’s never bread,” says Mendin. “At Pubbelly, we have that baguette for you to dip.”