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Shishito peppers are sprinkled with sea salt and accompanied by a sweet romesco sauce.
An Edible Adventureby Rachael Abrams | Photography by Jill Broussard | Modern Luxury Dallas magazine | April 22, 2014
A dim ambience amplified by smooth jazz lures foodies to Bite City Grill, where chef Eddy Thretipthuangsin creates harmony across all countries and cultures in exquisite palatable form. The latest venture from the former executive chef of Dallas-based Thai restaurant PakPao rises well above trendsetting eateries. Bite City Grill upstages Fort Worth’s West Seventh Street District culinary game and turns Montgomery Plaza into a sexy destination.
Upon entry, we were greeted by candlelight, drawn to the restaurant’s lounge vibe and Asian American-inspired decor. Wood and brick accentuate the surrounding booths in the dining area as geometric 3-D lighting and decorative art dot the entire space. The menu is divided into an eclectic grouping of small bites, big bites, greens and flatbreads. Order from the list of small bites for a tapas-style appetizer, or from the list of big bites for a healthy appetite. Whether it’s the baba ganoush or the braised short rib, each dish seamlessly reflects New American cuisine combining flavors and gastronomical techniques from around the world.
The incredible fusion is evident in chef Eddy’s creations; his attention to detail shines, including the list of local beers from Texas and wines from around the world. Even the breads and oblong-shaped rolls were enhanced by a miso-herb butter and infused oil for dipping.
As recommended by the polished wait staff, we began with a Leo—a carefully crafted cocktail from the menu of drinks named after zodiac signs. Arriving in a timely fashion, the smell of star anise floating in the honey-yellow concoction reeled us in. Sweet, citrus and light, Leo is our new favorite sign. In good company was the blistered shishito peppers small bite we ordered as well, flecked with sea salt and paired with a perfect romesco sauce of cashews, tomatoes and peppers. In one bite, an incredible ally between Spanish and Japanese cultures was created.
Even the greens defied all norms. The Caesar salad was made savory and earthy with miso, a traditional Japanese ingredient made from fermented soybeans. Though tasty and elegant, we prefer the Mama Lou salad. It had crunch and color from shredded napa cabbage, julienned carrots and strips of crispy wontons folded in a simply spectacular sauce, evocative of a cross between a French and Asian dressing.
For decadence, opt for the artichoke flatbread. Layered with a variety of mushrooms, truffle oil and strips of melted manchego cheese, this dish embodies every sense of the Japanese term umami (unique savory taste). The tuna tataki flatbread will rank high on your list if you like a Philadelphia sushi roll. It’s a deconstructed version with ahi tuna, cream cheese, arugula mixed in a yuzu vinaigrette and is presented on slightly leavened bread.
Moving onto the big bites: the seared Long Island duck was magical—tender, evenly cooked, bite-size medallions resting on a pillow of irresistible parsnip and cauliflower puree with a few wilted greens. The Chinese Peking duck was made succulent by a deep blackberry and raisin demi-glace—a classical French sauce. Wispy fried parsnips added a bit of playfulness to the sophisticated dish.
The American classic Big Bite burger was supreme. A thin pink line ran through the center of the juicy Angus beef, turning our burger into a symmetrical piece of art. Mouthwatering, caramelized onions and white cheddar cheese added depth to the sinful experience. Elevating the burger were strands of tantalizing truffle french fries.
Continuing to satiate, the grilled salmon was decadent. Served on a deep plate, the fish rested on a bed of creamy polenta and was garnished with a crispy candy-like piece of salmon skin. Framed by an aromatic miso sauce, the varying mushrooms complemented the flavorful salmon. Each dish at the restaurant offers a literal “bite,” whether it’s a kick of spice or a surprising ingredient.
One would be remiss to leave without tasting at least one of the tantalizing desserts. We relished the sea salt caramel semifreddo—salty, fluffy and served on a bittersweet brownie, and all beautifully balanced by just-enough caramelized banana slices. For a lighter dessert, choose the airy cheesecake or lemongrass panna cotta.
Bite City Grill offers more than just a dining experience; it transports diners on a journey around the world.
Bite City Grill
2600 W. Seventh St., Fort Worth
Sun.-Thu., 4-10pm; Fri.-Sat., 4-11pm
Dine well on game day. There are a handful of TVs dotting the walls in the bar-area.
Cocktails come with a side of bitters served in a dropper. Act like an apothecary as you add them to taste.
The Extra Space
In addition to the front patio, perfect for lunching on a warm day, there’s a beautiful back room for private parties.
A mix of hip yo-pros and sophisticates, all of whom are foodies