The Eat Is On

Having an amazing meal in Dallas is as easy as making a reservation and handing the keys to the valet, or if the wait is too long, catching the owner’s eye on a busy night. Easy in theory, yes. In practice, the act of choosing a restaurant often throws us into a tailspin. Will it be bistro intimate, steakhouse outrageous or burger joint glam? Today’s discovery could be street food in high heels or royal Texas barbecue sans frilly surroundings. Possibly our inner food snob is calling, insisting on a state-dinner-worthy repast that packs all the reigning epicurean trends­. (Don’t even talk to us unless it’s local, seasonal, sustainable, responsibly farmed, socially conscious, humanely grown and just plain delicious!) This year has seen it all, as the Big D dining scene races along with renewed energy, pumped up along the way with a decidedly potent shot of recovery optimism. With big personalities opening new doors, kitchen creatives pushing boundaries and the culinary cognoscenti still making magic, there’s no reason for dinner to be anything less than a winner. Dig in, Dallas.

Labor of love
David and Jennifer Uygur’s highly anticipated Lucia opened to sell-out nights in December, and the tiny Bishop Arts District trattoria, which feels like it’s been there forever, is still the city’s hottest ticket. David’s changing menu is achingly, authentically Italian, taking the best, freshest ingredients and spinning them into divine mouthfuls—think chicken liver crostini, ricotta gnocchi, brown-butter semifreddo and house-made salumi and bread. Jennifer handles the front of the house and oversees the small, well-chosen Italian wine list. In a word: Bravissimo! 408 W. Eighth St., 214.948.4998, luciadallas.com

Wish You Were Here!
Consider it a culinary postcard from Tracy and Kent Rathbun. Thai-style pepper shrimp with watermelon rice was conceived by Kent and executed by Shinsei chef Jason Czaja. Watermelon juice and lemongrass subtly flavor (and color) the rice, which pairs beautifully with a spicy, citrusy shrimp stir-fry. They went to Thailand and all we got was an amazing summer dish. Thanks, guys! 7713 Inwood Road, 214.352.0005, shinseirestaurant.‌com

Sunday Best
We wonder: With unlimited portions of dreamy fried chicken, beer-battered fish and meatloaf, plus all those carby sides at the popular Sunday Supper, how does Horne & Dekker owner Flynn Dekker stay so thin? Must be all that working the room. No matter, H&D transitions seamlessly from weekday sophisticated to nostalgic Sunday vittles. 2323 N. Henderson Ave., Ste. 102, 214.821.9333, horneanddekker.‌com

Wake-Up Thrall
We can say “breakfast” in three words: Crossroads Diner and Oddfellows. Chef-driven Crossroads makes swooners like sticky buns and corned beef hash. At Oddfellows, we yearn for dishes like French toast pudding and biscuits and gravy. Resistance is futile. Crossroads Diner, 8121 Walnut Hill Lane, 214.346.3491, crossroads-diner.com; Oddfellows, 316 W. Seventh St., 214.944.5958, oddfellowsdallas.com

Victory Lap
For the Craft experience without special-occasion pricing, the new lunch menu delivers. Start with salad and risotto balls on the house; entrées include tomato pie and pappardelle Bolognese, $8-$16. 2440 Victory Park Lane, Ste. 100, 214.397.4111, craftrestaurant.‌com

Top Sass
Dee Lincoln’s Tasting Room & Bubble Bar is one sexy resto-lounge, and now there’s one closer thanCowboys Stadium, at Rosewood Court. Sip sparklers on Italian leather sofas with perfect pours from the first U.S. flute dispenser. Try a skinny cocktail, or dig into wonderful noshes like sushi pizza and pork-belly sliders. The Bubble Bar is a swirl of sparkly mirrors and chic lounge nooks from the queen of high-roller glitz ‘n’ glam. Yet the fashionista-friendly venue welcomes everyone—an amazing feat for an amazing hostess. 2101 Cedar Springs Road, 214.979.9463, deelincolnstastingroom.com

Kitchen Aid
If the inaugural dinner of new Café Momentum is any indication, Parigi co-owners Janice Provost and Chad Houser have a winner. The two have started a nonprofit pop-up restaurant that doubles as a training opp for disadvantaged youths. At the first monthly fête in June, Suze chef Jeffery Hobbs cooked a five-course, sold-out dinner at Milestone Culinary Arts Center, highlighted by grilled tilapia with green cabbage mango slaw and black garbanzo beans. Sharon Hage will cook on August 7, and organizers hope to find a permanent location by October. That’s what we call good-for-the-soul food. cafemomentum.org

Plaza-palooza!
We loved One Arts Plaza’s original five eateries that enticed us with plein-air dining, the zippy Art Cart and live entertainment, but even our favorites were getting, well, ordinary. Enter The Commissary, the next generation for both OAP and chef John Tesar. The gourmet burgers, no-reservations policy and outdoor vibe have generated new energy. Tales of chef altercations aside, you’ll fall in love with the Plaza all over again. 1722 Routh St., Ste. 102, 214.643.6557, thecommissarydallas.com

Waiting for Saint Nick
Want to eat at a Neighborhood Services restaurant? So does the entire neighborhood. After calling ahead on the wait list hotline, then waiting twice as long as quoted, and finally sitting down to eat, you’ll know why chef/owner Nick Badovinus’ empire of three upscale casual eateries has achieved near-cult status. The decadent menu has enough healthy options to keep the diet on course. Standbys are piquant brisket meatballs, killer fish and chips and schnitzel with spaetzle, while the new seasonal menu welcomes summer with peach-enhanced flatbread, seared ahi tuna and Jonah crab salad. neighborhoodservicesdallas.com

Certifiably Good
To his impressive certifications (sommelier and spirits specialist), Pappas Bros. Steakhouse General Manager Rick Turner recently added BAR, an ultra-exclusive certification in spirits and mixology. While you’re perusing the fine wine list, you’ll also be sipping one of the city’s most thoughtfully crafted cocktails. 10477 Lombardy Lane, 214.366.2000, pappasbros.com

Pied Piper
After months of success with his wood-fired trailer oven, Jay Jerrier finally opened Cane Rosso, a brick-and-mortar spot in Deep Ellum, where the pizzaiolo with genuine Neapolitan creds kills us with authentic Naples-style pizza. We can’t resist the tender, seared crust, San Marzano tomatoes and fresh, handmade mozzarella. Jerrier still makes pizza with his trailer oven on nights when the restaurant is closed. Does this man love his work or what? 2612 Commerce St., 214.741.1188, ilcanerosso.com

Oui, Cowboy!
Texas prairie meets ooh-la-la at the newly renovated Intercontinental Dallas, where Q de Cheval has debuted, with Executive Chef Rex Turner’s take on Tex-French. The spacious interior formerly known as Monte Carlo tries, mostly successfully, to downplay its hotel restaurant bones. There’s still a bit of ’80s swagger, which is welcome news as the economy rebounds. Don’t miss the illuminated wall sculpture by Dallas artist Brad Oldham. The ambitious kitchen turns out a mouthwatering parade of dishes including crispy Bandera quail with ancho-chipotle honey, chicken-fried lobster and steak with jalapeño potato taquitos in lobster béarnaise sauce. 15201 Dallas Parkway, 972.386.6000, icdallas.com

Fant-Asia!
Conceived by resto pros and owners Yasmin and Braden Wages, Malai Kitchen made a stylish debut in the former Tom Tom space in West Village. The Thai-Vietnamese menu emphasizes fresh ingredients and house-made sauces. We love the comp sticky rice balls wrapped in banana leaf and served with eggplant puree. Pan-seared Georges Bank cod is a great showcase for from-scratch red curry paste. The patio is deep and inviting and a massive bar commands the interior. 3699 McKinney Ave., Ste. 319, 214.599.7857, malaikitchen.com

RAISE THE STEAKS
There’s nothing nuanced about a Dallas steak house. Big, bold and brash—and that’s just the wine list! Here’s our multicourse fantasy menu.

Amuse Us
Fried lobster corndog, Charlie Palmer at The Joule: Chef Scott Romano’s amuse bouche is a take on the State Fair classic, but much better than the original. 1530 Main St., 214.261.4600, charliepalmer.com

Start Us Up
Crab cake with Cajun lobster sauce, Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse: Chef David Holben spices up big chunks of sweet crabmeat with a heavy hand of New Orleans flavor. 5251 Spring Valley Road, 972.490.9000, delfriscos.com

Soup’s On
French onion soup, The Capital Grille: Melted onions and a deep, rich broth hide under a blanket of melted Gruyère. Pull back the covers and tuck in. 500 Crescent Court, 214.303.0500, thecapitalgrille.com

Main Event
Dry-aged prime New York strip steak, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse: It’s aged 42 days in-house. Ordering it cooked any more than medium rare is a culinary crime. 10477 Lombardy Lane, 214.366.2000, pappasbros.com

(We) Like Butta!
Compound steak butters, Sullivan’s Steakhouse: Cabernet-goat cheese, Gorgonzola-garlic and roasted red pepper-truffle butters are decadent toppers to Sullivan’s velvety steaks. 17795 N. Dallas Parkway, 972.267.9393, sullivanssteakhouse.com

Pass Up Steak Only For…
Stuffed branzino, paella-style, Nick & Sam’s: The Mediterranean bass comes loaded with shellfish, Spanish chorizo and Basmati rice. 3008 Maple Ave., 214.871.7444, nick-sams.com

A New Pork Minute
Roasted pork chop, Perry’s Steakhouse & Grille: Cured, roasted, slow-smoked and enormous, it’s irresistible. 2000 McKinney Ave., Ste. 100, 214.855.5151, perryssteakhouse.com

Best Side Story
Off-the-cob creamed corn, III Forks: Here’s the essence of summer. If it’s not on the menu, ask for it. 17776 Dallas Parkway, 972.267.1776, iiiforks.com

Happily Ever After
Hot chocolate cake, Morton’s The Steakhouse: This brownie-esque dessert oozes with molten Godiva chocolate. It’s worth every calorie. 2222 McKinney Ave., 214.741.2277, mortons.com

See and BEE Scene
Taquerias? So yesterday. Just ask Monica Greene, who created the enchiladeria with Best Enchiladas Ever. At this near-Bishop-Arts-District spot, you build your own. We love the brisket in corn tortillas with poblano crema, cilantro and onions. Simply BEE-guiling. 202 W. Davis St., 214.941.1233, bestenchiladasever.‌com

Belle of the Mall
The Second Floor at the Westin Galleria is a traveler’s mecca, whether you have just jetted in from overseas or walked the mall in your best Big D shopping ensemble. Exquisite creations by chef J Chastain, prepared in consultation with chef/partner Scott Gottlich, might possibly leave you wondering why all this culinary wizardry is tucked away inside a mall. We loved the recent special of saffron and yellow bell pepper soup with grilled shrimp, and potato gnocchi with smoked duck breast, haricot verts and stilton cheese. The to-die-for chocolate turtle bomb dessert is accompanied by one of the best restaurant brownies around. Added bonus: The $15 valet charge is comped, a sweet deal when the mall gets busy. 13340 Dallas Parkway, 972.450.2978, thesecondfloorrestaurant.com

Reel Deal
We’re so ready for our close-up! Top Chef Tre Wilcox’s new kitchen, Marquee Grill & Bar, is Dallas’ runaway summer blockbuster. The two-story, lunch- to late-night resto conceived by Twomey Concepts, located in the Village Theatre complex at Highland Park Village, is a charmer, with plenty of camera-ready polish and a delish menu to match. We scored on a recent visit with the best fair-weather seat in the house, one of three balcony tables overlooking the bustling parking lot at Dallas’ toniest retail hang. For lunch, beef and mushroom potstickers were a perfect sharable starter, while an Asian salad with crab and a spinach salad with crispy rock shrimp packed additional star power. This is one new release you won’t want to miss! 33 Highland Park Village, 214.522.6035, marqueegrill.com

Guten Tag, Gluten-Free!
Kudos to Eddie V’s for its gluten-free menu that debuted in May. Even patrons who are unafflicted by celiac disease will devour the ahi tuna tartare, bacon-wrapped shrimp, Gulf snapper and more, prepared in a kitchen that uses separate utensils and storage containers. Patrons who have missed the brabant potatoes, they’re back! 4023 Oak Lawn Ave., 214.890.1500, eddiev.com

Class in Session
Put away the pencils and spiral notebooks—Saint Ann Restaurant & Bar is way too cool for school. The site of the historic St. Ann’s School has been masterfully repurposed by Harwood International as a restaurant and bar with a spacious deck for lazy Sunday brunches and après game nights, courtesy of its proximity to the American Airlines Center. Favorites include the seared scallops with pepper jack poblano grits and Shiner Bock ice cream. 2501 N. Harwood St., 214.782.9807, saintanndallas.com

Deal With a View
Five Sixty restaurant is taking value to new heights, with a dim sum-and-sake tasting for $25 on Monday through Saturday nights in the bar and lounge. Nibble on a sampling of sushi items including a spicy tuna roll and vegetable roll, plus delectable dim sum dumplings. For sips, choose a trio of sake or a glass of sparkling wine. 300 Reunion Blvd., 214.741.5560, wolfgangpuck.com

LET'S DO LUNCH
Oh how we miss the meal formerly known as lunch. Perhaps you remember the hour or two that used to mean pleasant conversation, great food and even a business deal here and there? Here are five Dallas restaurants that haven’t forgotten the art of midday, and the loyal patrons who appreciate them.

Al Biernat’s
You know you rate when you get a personal escort by the owner himself. A favorite of Dallas notables such as DA Craig Watkins, banker Gerald J. Ford and Southwest Airlines founder Herb Kelleher, the power vibe is just as present at lunch as dinner, where filling salads and killer apps like tempura prawns with honey-mustard vinaigrette tempt the palate. 4217 Oak Lawn Ave., 214.219.2201, albiernats.com

Forty Five Ten
As intrigued as you may be by the exquisite wares at one of Dallas’ most stylish boutiques, remember they will be there after lunch. Seen among the T Room’s paninis and fresh salads: Laura Bush, Cindy Rachofsky, Deedie Rose, Sharon Young, Erin Mathews and David Nichols. 4510 McKinney Ave., 214.559.2332, fortyfiveten.com

Nosh Euro Bistro
Avner Samuel’s Mediterranean hot spot packs in the fans, including former Dallas Cowboys QB Troy Aikman, for savory specialties such as Egyptian falafel and escargot fritters. 4216 Oak Lawn Ave., 214.528.9400, nosheurobistro.com

Parigi
Design District denizens, including Allan Knight, Jan Showers, David and Ann Sutherland and Michelle Nussbaumer, flock to one of Dallas’ original locavore spots, where the French-Italian fare makes for an oh-so-civilized meal. 3311 Oak Lawn Ave., 214.521.0295, parigidallas.com

Samar
Small plates and a central biz district locale make Stephan Pyles’ homage to the flavors of India, Spain and the Eastern Mediterranean a natural draw. Spied recently was developer and Dallas Art Fair co-founder John Sughrue, no doubt keeping tabs on nearby Museum Tower. 2100 Ross Ave., 214.922.9922, samarrestaurant.‌com

Deal With a View
Five Sixty restaurant is taking value to new heights, with a dim sum-and-sake tasting for $25 on Monday through Saturday nights in the bar and lounge. Nibble on a sampling of sushi items including a spicy tuna roll and vegetable roll, plus delectable dim sum dumplings. For sips, choose a trio of sake or a glass of sparkling wine. 300 Reunion Blvd., 214.741.5560, wolfgangpuck.com

Swoon & Croon
The Hilton Anatole has lately been rocking weekends with singer WT Greer, performing at Nana Bar. The dulcet-toned charmer’s repertoire ranges from lounge sexy to conga-line crazy. Listen, sip and schmooze while noshing on kobe sliders, cavatelli pasta with pork Bolognese and Parmesan fries. Be prepared for Greer to chat you up and drag you on the dance floor. 2201 Stemmons Freeway, 214.761.7470, nanarestaurant.‌com

Eat, Taste, Love
Former Samar chef Vijay Sadhu is pioneering modern Indian cuisine at Sutra in Plano. His wonderful, exotic dishes are perfumed with fenugreek, cardamom, tamarind and, occasionally, chipotle. He’s partial to Goan cuisine, with its strong Portuguese influence; look for thali, small bites on a tray, at lunch. We’ve Goan to heaven. 7200 Bishop Road, Ste. B-9, Plano, 972.398.9339, sutrarestaurant.com

Coming Attractions
We have delicious news that a batch of restaurants is slated for summer openings. Look for Velvet Taco, an organic, from-scratch taqueria in the rehabbed Church’s Chicken site at North Henderson Avenue and North Central Expressway. Fresh-Mex Wild Salsa and Asian-fusion Urban Wok are opening doors in The Element, 1800 Main St. A nearby burger bar, Chophouse Burger, is in the works, too. Dough Pizzeria, a San Antonio import that specializes in Neapolitan-style pizzas, debuts at the northwest corner of Preston Road and Forest Lane. Alberto Lombardi’s Bistro 31 opens in August in Highland Park Village. The Mediterranean menu will change seasonally, offering three meals daily in the 45-seat bistro, with patio seating for 30. The kitchen will be helmed by Eric Brandt, formerly of the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek.

Cheering for Fearing’s
As if you needed an excuse to head to Fearing’s on a weeknight! The restaurant is serving comp two-bite tacos and new seasonal cocktails at the Rattlesnake Bar and outside at the Live Oak Bar from 5:30 to 7pm on Wednesday and Thursday nights. Should two bites beg for more, new menu items in the dining room include a Tennessee pork chop with red chili rabbit empanadas (Thursday and Friday nights only) and a refreshing trio of summer fruit pops. The Ritz-Carlton, Dallas, 2121 McKinney Ave., 214.922.4848, fearingsrestaurant.com

SHH, IT'S A SECRET
Nothing strokes the ego like scoring your favorite dish even when it isn’t on the menu. Here’s our short list of off-menu items available to those in-the-know. Psst… We know you’re special, but call ahead anyway so the chef can pamper you properly.

Abacus
Once offered in every diner’s welcoming bread basket, chef/owner Kent Rathbun’s Parmesan crisps have not been forgotten by longtime fans, who can count on the restaurant to provide the savory treats, if requested at the time of reservation. 4511 McKinney Ave., 214.559.3111, kentrathbun.com

Kenichi
Faithful followers request the Friday roll, (aka Freddy roll), an inside-out twist on a snow crab-cucumber-avocado-stuffed California roll topped with wild salmon, baked and served with spicy Sriracha Thai chili sauce. 2400 Victory Park Lane, 214.871.8883, kenichidallas.com

La Fiorentina
Fans often request a special order of the pork Milanese entrée—pork chops, pounded to paillard thinness, coated in bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese, lightly sautéed and served with a lemony sauce, topped with fresh greens. 4501 Cole Ave., 972.528.6170, lafiorentinadallas.‌com

Nick & Sam’s
Dramatic plumes of dry ice-induced smoke announce the showstopping kung pao lobster appetizer. Chef Samir Dhurandhar adds Kashmiri peppercorns and other Indian seasonings to traditional Chinese sauce, enhancing fried medallions of Australian lobster tails served in the shell and dressed to impress. 3008 Maple Ave., 214.871.7444, nick-sams.‌com

Rise No. 1
Regulars love being fêted with a special-order, candy cap mushroom soufflé. Made with a rare Pacific Northwest mushroom varietal characterized by a maple-syrup like flavoring, the dish’s sweet fragrance turns heads. 5360 W. Lovers Lane, Ste. 220, 214.366.9900, risesouffle.com

Twisted Root Burger Co.
Always creative chef/owner Jason Boso recently introduced three “secret” french fry variations for friends of the restaurant: “Literal” fries enhanced with cracked pepper, blue cheese and truffle salt; “Italian” fries with Parmesan and green onions; and “American” fries topped with chili sauce, melted cheese, bacon bits, chives and jalapeños. 2615 Commerce St., 214.741.7668, twistedrootburgerco.com

Just ’Cues We Can!
Two newcomers are working hard to change the idea that you need a road trip to have great barbecue. Pecan Lodge (1010 S. Pearl Expressway, 214.748.8900, pecanlodge.com), in Shed 2 of the Dallas Farmers Market, is the hands-down champ of local low-and-slow, with smoky, tender brisket and Kansas City-style “burnt ends.” And at Lockhart Smokehouse (400 W. Davis, 214.944.5521, lockhartsmokehouse.com), the ’cue can often be as good as its inspiration, the famed Kreuz Market in Lockhart.

Sweetest Surrender
Call her the cookie monster in heels—founder Pam Denesuk of Great One Cookie Company is Big D’s current threat to your waistline. Her motto: “Life is too short to eat an average cookie,” so if you do choose to indulge, make it one super cookie. Most normal humans get one taste of her jumbo peanut butter pretzel or snickerdoodle cookies, and they don’t want to stop. Seriously, they are trouble. And we don’t care. 3111-B Monticello Ave., 214.219.3111, greatonecookies.‌com

He Toques the Talk
Except for frequent pacing of his Inwood Village dining room, chef Scott Gottlich of Bijoux stays in the kitchen—and it shows. In the past year, Gottlich launched an a la carte menu, a welcome alternative to the prix fixe multicourse tasting menu, and started a wine education series with wife and front-of-house partner, Gina. Dishes are consistently clever and beautiful, never sacrificing taste for trendiness. We’re still marveling over the tiny amuse bouche, perfect foie gras profiterole with cranberry puree. 5450 W. Lovers Lane, Ste. 225, 214.350.6100, bijouxrestaurant.‌com

Host With the Most
Don’t get us wrong; 25-year-old City Café is worth a return visit for the well-executed continental menu and the handsome renovation of this neighborhood favorite. But what really makes our foodie hearts go pitter-patter is suave host Karim Alaoui, who commands the dining room with princely precision. Go ahead ladies, let him kiss your hand. 5757 W. Lovers Lane, Ste. 101, 214.351.2233, thecitycafedallas.‌com

Cream of the Crop
“Panna cotta is the new darling of desserts,” proclaimed chef Stephan Pyles at a recent demo, as he added sheets of gelatin to cooked cream. A patriarch of Southwestern cuisine, Pyles wowed guests with his Meyer lemon version with port-macerated blackberries and warm white chocolate foam. Dare we say it’s the new crème brûlée? Stephan Pyles, 1807 Ross Ave., Ste. 200, 214.580.7000, stephanpyles.com

Bijoux
Chef Scott Gottlich goes savory with a melt-in-your-mouth fava bean panna cotta, topped tableside with a silk sweet corn soup. “It’s a play on texture using components of succotash,” says Gottlich. 5450 W. Lovers Lane, Ste. 225, 214.350.6100, bijouxrestaurant.‌com

The Mansion Restaurant
One bite of the shrimp cocktail with horseradish panna cotta and tomato syrup, and you’ll wonder why the technique is wasted on dessert. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd., 214.443.4747, mansiononturtlecreek.com

Nosh Euro Bistro
From chef Jon Stevens comes Meyer lemon and vanilla bean panna cotta with a rhubarb compote and crumble topping. Tart and sweet, creamy and crunchy, the dish is as fresh as it is indulgent. 4216 Oak Lawn Ave., 214.528.9400, nosheurobistro.com

Park
Served in a mini Mason jar, chef Garreth Dickey’s coconut panna cotta with vanilla and fruit relish is the perfect ending to a meal. 1921 N. Henderson Ave., 214.824.3343, parkhenderson.com

Men of the House
Leave it to a couple of French guys to make you forget that for years the Mansion Restaurant’s most famous dishes were about tortillas and tacos. With Executive Chef Bruno Davaillon and Pastry Chef Nicolas Blouin, the Mansion’s culinary renaissance is complete. New on the menu is the artful Jonah crab and avocado starter, with avocado petals wrapping sweet, chunky crab. Blouin’s clever creations, including a pink hollowed-out ball of white chocolate encasing cheesecake and margarita sorbet, taste as awesome as they look. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd., 214.443.4747, mansiononturtlecreek.com