Eat Wave!

Trend fatigue is a serious illness. And San Diego’s restaurant scene came down with a bad case over the last year. Short ribs on every table. Duck fat fries at McRestaurants. Food trucks outselling Hondas. Yet, instead of dissing every good idea worth repeating, we dug in! We embraced the oversaturated protein. We forked the preciously omnipresent dessert of the day. We analyzed the trends and uncovered their roots. San Diego is finally getting its bistro renaissance, while the dining rooms that remained high-end went even higher and the push-cart with Michelin-worthy tacos kept flinging the cart-nip. This guide is a collaboration between two food writers who spent a better portion of the year wiping food from the corner of their mouths. The great food and some not-so-great. The trendy and the traditional. The tangerine-dusted foie gras terrines and the proletariat house-made wiener. Here, we lavishly spread the goods.

A Good Ribbing
Nice year for Market Restaurant + Bar maestro Carl Schroeder. Urbanites flocked to his comfort-food spin-off, Bankers Hill Bar + Restaurant. Then James Beard named him S.D.’s sole semifinalist for Best Chef in the Pacific Region. He didn’t win, which means you still have a shot at getting a table. Schroeder does lots well, including staying ahead of trends. Before short ribs showed up at every drive-thru, they were a star at Market. From that sweet cab-sauv braise to the air-light onion-tater purée, little’s changed about the fork-tender hunks. That’s the way we like it. 3702 Via de la Valle, 858.523.0007, marketdelmar.com

TREND REQUESTS
They say imitation’s the sincerest form of flattery. If true, S.D.’s restaurant scene is a Mutual Flatteration Society. With so much trend-hopping, finding the best gets tough. Here’s a pocket-size cheat sheet:

PORK BELLY No resto has a more regionally inventive take on SD’s “It” protein than Nine-Ten, where pork fat rules on the back of Caribbean flare from plantains, black-eyed peas and capsaicin-laced gelées. Pig out! 910 Prospect St., nine-ten.com

MAC ‘N’ CHEESE Applewood-smoked Gouda’s all good, but fromage made smoldering by Stone Smoked Porter is the stuff of beauty. The sausage-stocked mac ‘n’ beer cheese at Stone Brewing World Bistro and Gardens is worth raising a pint (or two) to. 1999 Citricado Parkway, stoneworldbistro.com

CALAMARI Forget chicken-fried marinara dreck. Chedi Thai Bistro’s squid is unfathomably tender with a crispy salt-and-peppered crust that stands up to a mahogany slick of sweet chile. 737 Pearl St., Suite 110, chedithaibistro.com

SWEET POTATO FRIES Who needs ketchup when the spuds at East Village hang Neighborhood are carved from Garnets, topped with shaft-aged bleu and dressed in a peppered malt vinegar mignonette. Gourmet tubers? Yam right! 777 G St., neighborhoodsd.com

RISOTTO Escargot goes beyond garlic butter at Farmhouse Café, where the protein nuggets meld seamlessly with Parm-Reg and creamy, perfectly plumped Arborio kernels tinted garden green from fresh herbs. 2121 Adams Ave., farmhousecafesd.com

Heads of ’Tails
Any tribal-tatted half-wit can pour booze in a cup. Real cocktails? In S.D. that means Grant Grill (grantgrill.‌com). Every ingredient Jeff Josenhans uses is either top shelf or oddly creative (tarragon, smoke, Christmas tree leaves). It also means George’s California Modern (georgesatthecove.com), where Frankie Thaheld’s got star-farm produce, a “perfect ice cube” machine and creative license. Finally, Avenue 5’s (avenue5restaurant.com) Mike Yen wields sci-chef toys like agar and stabilizers to create cotton candy cocktails, plus gelatinous 3-D fruits and veggies. Drink creatively.

Point of Conception
The buzz for concepts by Arsalun Tafazoli (Neighborhood) and Nathan Stanton (El Dorado) disputes the notion that all San Diegans want are party decks, fish tacos and Coronas. Case in point: Craft & Commerce, the duo’s follow-up collaboration after Noble Experiment. Very few people could make their location work—down a Little Italy side street at the base of a business-y condo tower. The last resto here failed. But locals pack C&C for roasted bone marrow seasoned with house vinegar, trios of house-made hot dogs (one with yuzu kosho aioli) and abnormal libations. Like beer-based cocktails and massive spiked punch bowls (just like reform school dances!). 675 W. Beech St., craft-commerce.com

Get Yer Goat
The Smoking Goat doesn’t have a sign. It barely has space for tables. But it’s got duck fat and it’s got chef-owner Frederick Piehl, a former Nine-Ten cook gone rogue. We gladly forego elbow room for his housemade app of venison terrine, tart pickled veg and zingy mustard. Or his entrée of plump leg of duck confit over perfectly cooked risotto. Save a bit of yourself for those simple yet dreamy duck fat fries and the pan-seared banana bread with rum ice cream. 3408 30th St., thesmokinggoatrestaurant.com

Easy Does It!

Whatta concept. The most hardcore local restaurant group (the guys behind The Linkery) asked a friend to design a Baja-gringo menu. That pal? Baja’s top chef, Jair Téllez. The result? El Take It Easy, a border-hopping food affair we call Juan-John. The food isn’t always spot-on (Téllez lives south, after all), but they win in the pork belly tacos and octopi street-food department. Plus, no place north of Tijuana has nearly as good a Mexi bar program. We’re talking Palomas (tequila, grapefruit soda), a full-on mezcal menu (most joints have one bottle) and local-seasonal sangria. 3926 30th St., eltakeiteasy.com

Cheez Whiz!
Originally drawn to cheese by vegetarianism, Cafe Chloe exec chef Katie Grebow now calls it her “favorite food group.” She can usually be found a few doors down at Venissimo, prodding various chevres, bleus and triple crèmes. We will one day repel into Cafe Chloe under the dark of night to burgle The List (her obsessive ledger of the 500-plus cheeses she’s plated during her Chloe tenure). Stop in and join her for a sniff of odoriferous Schloss or a poignant hit of Vacherin Mond d’Or (her personal fave). 721 Ninth Ave., cafechloe.com

Hot Suds
Considering San Diego’s status as the craft beer capital of the U.S., beer may as well be a food group. And fingering the best brewery is daunting enough to drive one to drink. But Mira Mesa’s AleSmith rises to the head of the glass. From their piney “X” extra pale ale, to their boozy raisin-tinged Grand Cru Belgian ale, to the smooth-drinking obsidian mocha java wonder that is their award-winning Speedway Stout, their roster is a sterling representation of all craft beer can be. 9368 Cabot Drive, alesmith.com

Meat and Greet
Who knew cured meat would be the next big thing in ab-obsessed S.D.? The recipe: raw meat, spices, fat, air and time. The best? Jsix (jsixrestaurant.com): Christian Graves’ crew is in year four of their race for the cure. They’ve got a closet full of air-drying pig right next to barrels of house-made vinegars. A.R. Valentien (arvalentien.com): Jeff Jackson is one of the city’s first tip-to-tailers, and his pâtés and terrines prove it (he even does the always-intimidating head cheese). Tender Greens (tendergreensfood.‌com): Chef Pete Balistreri’s killer speck and salami landed him in the book Primal Cuts. It’s a well-deserved nod.

ROAD TESTED
Buckle up and grab a spork! From S.D.’s highways and byways to a parking lot near you, gastrotrucks are rebuffing the rep of roach coaches. The trend went from Hawaii to Portland to New York to... well, finally, here. Here’s the all-star, all-wheel team:

1. Miho Gastrotruck Linkery expats Juan Miron and Kevin Ho melded their shared passion for sustainable cuisine (and their last names) to bring Miho to a legion of cult fans (HoMis). Staples include their gravy-laden poutine and squash blossom quesadillas. mihogastrotruck.com
2. Marisco’s German It’s no pimped-out foodmobile. But you can’t talk truck grub without mentioning The Gobernator, a $3 shrimp taco that would cost $12 anywhere with proper furniture. 35th & University, Normal Heights
3. KalbiQ Move over, carne asada. The exotic, spicy flavors of Korea meet the compactness of Mexican street food in the hull of KalbiQ. Traditional Seoul meats like bulgogi (grilled beef marinated in garlic, soy and sesame) are bringing the heat one pit stop at a time. twitter.com/kalbiq
4. Joe’s on the Nose Sure, it’s a coffee truck. But it’s also the O.G. of this food-truck craze. And their Aloha Latte—a mocha with macademia nut, coconut, topped with coconut whipped cream—is dreamy. joesonthenose.com
5. Chop Soo-ey Locals missing Kemo Sabe and chef Deborah Scott’s Skirts on Fire marinated steak can find it here. Even better at this Asian barbecue meals-on-wheels? Pork sliders and calamari salad. chopsooeytruck.com

Give ’em the boot!
We’re skeptic when we hear “everything $20 and under.” But count Little Italy’s Bencotto Italian Kitchen in the top tier of eateries delivering authenticity at affordable prices. From stellar béchamel dressed lasagna (’bout time a non-red sauce version hit the scene) to tender meatballs yummy enough to abandon noodles altogether, chef Fabrizio Cavallini’s edible homages to his homeland never fall flat. And who can’t appreciate the freedom of a pasta-your-way option no self-respecting grandma from the old country would ever allow? 750 W. Fir St., 619.450.4786, lovebencotto.com

Communist Movement
The most valid reason for overcoming fear of strangers is A.R. Valentien’s weekly Artisan Table events. Held at sunset on The Lodge at Torrey Pines’ west-facing patio (overlooking the famed 18th hole), these thematic one-time-only meals are served family-style and centered around everything from boutique wineries to regional cuisines and just plain whimsy. Menu development starts with Executive Chef Jeff Jackson and Chef de Cuisine Tim Kolanko, but goes well beyond. They draw sacred family dishes and bright ideas from every sous chef who ever worked the line. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Road, arvalentien.com

The Pickup Joint
For years in Del Mar, you either ate high-dollar cuisine or you ate mediocre also-food. That changed with the arrival of Prepkitchen, the casual, affordable offshoot of La Jolla’s Whisknladle. Del Martians now line up for Niman Ranch braised short ribs, zesty fusili bolognese with porcini mushrooms and the lip-smackingest roasted chicken. Now if a good designer would just take the remodeling wrecking ball to the inside of Bully’s. 1201 Camino del Mar, prepkitchen.com

Game Changer
Downtown’s Quality Social’s wieners beat the tar out of those flaccid $7 stadium dogs. QS wraps a version in bacon (one of Tijuana’s greatest contributions to mankind) and flat-tops them before gussying them up nacho-style with avocado and pico de gallo. For their Windy City dog, toppings go deep-dish wild (onions, relish, peppers, you name it). The Padres aren’t good; these dogs are. 789 Sixth Ave., 619.501.7675, qualitysocial.com

Foie-La-La
Last call! Come July 2012, former gov-papa Schwarzenegger’s law against foie gras takes effect. If you have it just one more time before the darkness befalls us, make it Jason Maitland’s at Flavor. His terrine is marinated in Tokay and tangerine zest for days, then served with fuyu persimmon, ginger chutney and Hawaiian sea salt. Otherworldly. 1555 Camino del Mar, flavordelmar.com

Stick It to ’Em
Hillcrest’s Yakitori Yakyudori is a top-chef hangout—a traditional Japanese small-bites hotbed of succulently skewered, hot-off-the-grill proteins. The menu’s simple: chicken, beef or pork (with smelt-like capelin and ‘shroom also-rans). But the range of flavors is incredible, especially for those who go for a trio of chicken heart, liver and gizzard. 3739 Sixth Ave., 619.692.4189, yakyudori.us

Somm Kinda Special
Deep-pocketed Addison plays on an entirely different level than other S.D. restos (see national feature, page 92). Wine director Jesse Rodriguez’s 3,300-bottle collection of rare, limited-editions (’07 Napa cabs, killer Bordeaux) is one of the country’s finest. If anyone’s got good odds to pass that next-to-impossible Master Somm test, it’s this affable wino. 5200 Grand Del Mary Way, thegranddelmar.com

Paging Mr. Demille!
Nine-Ten recently announced it’d stay open Sundays and Mondays. Maybe the extra face time will finally garner Jason Knibb the credit he deserves. Sure, he’s got a cult following and a killer staff of dedicated foodists (GM Neal Wasserman is an urban farmer), but he somehow remains one of the most underappreciated chefs in California. His king salmon with fennel shavings and toasted couscous is a wonder. His Jamaican jerk pork belly is the best pig in town. And his artful platings are worth their own class at RISD. 910 Prospect St., nine-ten.com

Yes, We Cohn

The big dog always gets nipped in the heels. The Cohn Restaurant Group (Blue Point, Prado, etc.) has taken heat for being middle-of-the-roadists. But they’ve stepped up their game with Bo Beau, tapping designer Philippe Verpiand (ex-Bleu Bohéme) to reinvent O.B. classic Thee Bungalow. The perfectly lit décor and charming-as-heck fireside patio are a fantastic spot for some of the best Brussels sprouts in town (with hefty Parm shards, pancetta, port reduction) or chef Katherine Humphus’ bouef bourguignon, a stellar riff on the French classic. 4996 W. Point Loma Blvd., cohnrestaurantgroup.com

Mussel Bound
Vin blanc and herbaceous Belgian brews are the usual bathwater of choice for moules frites. Not Tony Miller’s. The new chef/mussel man at Arterra is opting for Southeast Asian flair with lemongrass, fresh lime and more than a pinch of Thai chiles. The result is a broth that starts with a burst of earthy citrus and ends with a fiery blow to the palate. Sip Sancerre, reset palate, repeat. 11966 El Camino Real, arterrarestaurant.com

Francly Speaking
Before bringing his traditional French Provençal fare to La Jolla’s Tapenade, Jean-Michel Diot made a name for himself in NYC. In that food-sport city, quality isn’t squat without consistency. Maybe that’s why he’s found such a devout following in S.D. From classics like steak au poivre and coq au vin to his famous wild mushroom ravioli in sweet (but never cloying) port wine sauce, Diot’s offerings always delight. The man is side-by-side with S.D.’s classic French masters like Bernard Guillas (Marine Room) and Patrick Ponsaty (Mistral), helping sauce lovers forget that his former protégé Philippe Verpiand (Cavaillon) just skipped town. 7612 Fay Ave., tapenaderestaurant.‌com

The Raw Deal
Put down the wasabi! You don’t want anything getting in the way of the über-fresh seafood gems at Hane Sushi in Bankers Hill. After all, this is a Sushi Ota offshoot, and every chef in town knows local fishermen don’t sell to anyone until Ota’s had his pick of the litter. Quality is king and comes through in taste, texture, appearance and (lack of) aroma. With each graceful slide of their yanagi ba blades, the master technicians behind the bar pay honorable homage to sea proteins (some flown in from around the globe). To douse well-cut, top-rate fish like this in soy sauce would be like finger painting on a Picasso. 2760 Fifth Ave., #105, 619.260.1411

Son of a Bice
A few years in, the faces at Bice have changed. Some of the original masterminds have moved on. But chef Mario Cassineri remains, as does that wondrous cheese bar, stocked with stinky imports and house-made jams. Cassineri’s orzotto is still the must-eat dish, but we’re also loving his house-cured duck prosciutto with melon, spinach, foie gras terrine and blueberry dressing. It’s Technicolor Italian. 425 Island Ave., bicesandiego.com

Pie in the Sky
Pizza is not a major entry on S.D.’s food CV. But there are a few that won’t offend NYC pie-snobs. When it comes to thin Neapolitans, follow the crowd to Normal Heights’ Blind Lady Ale House (blindladyalehouse.com) for ’za topped with house-made chorizo (don’t miss the drafts from the on-site-only Automatic Brewing Co.). Wanna get deep? Sink a knife and fork into Lefty’s Chicago Pizzeria’s (leftyspizza.com) “Monster of the Midway,” with elephant garlic and spicy giardiniera (a pickled veg medley) in Mission Hills or North Park. No matter the style, it doesn’t get any more authentic than Osteria Origano (osteriaorigano.‌com), where they imported an Italian pizziola with 40-plus years of experience to bust out pies adorned with speck and buffalo mozzarella. And, of course, you can always mingle with the gruff teddy bears at Bronx Pizza (bronxpizza.com). But, unless you’re recently transplanted or 5 years old, you already knew that.

A-OK!
In sports they say you can’t teach height. Bertrand at Mister A’s in Bankers Hill is still the Kevin Garnett of eateries—a bit older, but still able to hold its own against younger flashes in the pan. Location, location, location provides guests a sweeping longview of S.D. in any direction. And chef Stéphane Voitzwinkler’s crisply roasted duckling with a cherry and pinot noir reduction keeps patrons awe-silent while you take it all in. 2550 Fifth Ave., #406, bertrandatmisteras.com

’HOOD WINKS
Kensington has Ken Grill. Mission Hills has The Gathering (whose bread tastes like soap). Wherever you live, there’s usually an unpretentious bistro catering to locals. Here’s a handful of our favorite ’hoodies.

The Red Door: Sorry, Gathering. This is the new gourmet centerpiece in Mission Hills. No one can bring the farm to the table like chef Brian Johnston (much of the resto’s produce is grown on his half-acre plot on Mount Helix). He even gets guests in on the act, touring them from stall to stall at the local farmers market during his Chef’s Market Dinners. thereddoorsd.com

Urge Gastropub: El Biz may get top billing as Rancho Bernardo’s big splurge, but Urge packs in the ’burbian sect with 50-plus taps and oodles of rare international beers. Even if R.B. locals would rather eat turkey sandwiches on the 19th hole. urgegastropubsd.com

Alexander’s: The marble and white leather bring an air of antiquity and soda-fountain class to 30th Street. Their delish pizzas, pastas and Italiano fare is made fresh daily, a cut above the comparables without coming off as too stuffy or highbrow for its young and hip neighbor crowd. alexanderson30th.com

Bankers Hill Bar + Restaurant: When Market’s Carl Schroeder reached past Del Mar for a slice of the comfort-food-done-right pie, his groupies flocked. A year later, the trend-chasers have thinned out, leaving a steady legion of local Hill people clamoring for—well, mostly that burger (part short rib, part brisket, part chuck on a brioche bun) and cocktails. bankserhillsd.com

Sessions Public: Had owner Abel Kaase not grown up in Point Loma, it’s unlikely he’d have chosen this out-of-the-way spot (a former pizza joint). Sessions is a haven for locals in search of a quality bar and grill within stumbling distance of home. One-off brews and snacks like fried chicken oysters make this hideaway worth finding. sessionspublic.com

Science Friction
Kitchen 1540 Paul McCabe can’t help but tinker. Already a skilled interloper with molecular gastronomy, now he’s creating 200-plus brand-new dishes with rare ingredients like duck tongues and cuttlefish kidneys. He even built a vertical garden for exotic roughage (including an herb that tastes just like an oyster). His new tasting menus will be created on-the-spot depending on whatever the diner’s craving. We’re having a craving right about now. 1540 Camino del Mar, laubergedelmar.com

Blue Point
James Beard nominee Daniel Barron is S.D.’s top molecular gastro whiz. At “The Experience” dinners every Thursday and Friday, he serves 11-course thrill rides. Highlights? Root beer cotton candy over hiramasa. Sounds horrifying, tastes... amazing. Or banana cream pie—with peanut butter in powder form. This is a man who knows how to use, not abuse, his toys. 565 Fifth Ave., cohnrestaurants.‌com

Hail Caeser!
The Caesar salad may as well be a local tradition (it was invented in Tijuana). Sure it’s simple. But done wrong, it’s a dressing bomb. Done right, it’s a brackish wonder. The best we’ve found? At Whisknladle, where Ryan Johnston uses anchovies, garlic, cabernet vinegar, a pinch of mustard powder, a mix of canola and olive oil, plus a spritz of lemon with sourdough croutons. An unsuspecting socks-knocker. 1044 Wall St., whisknladle.com

Sweet Surrender
Sweet tooths must be sated. At Bo Beau, a killer trio of chocolates includes a silk-perfect pot de créme and white chocolate bread pudding. Bankers Hill Bar + Restaurant set our clock back to 1970 with its butterscotch pudding (salted caramel!). But it was Argyle Steakhouse (argylesteakhouse.com) that blew our collective minds with pastry chef Frank Riffaud’s root beer float and Julian apple fritters.