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Four New Restaurants We’re Crazy For

We stop by Spaghetti Bros., Barcha, Del Popolo, and An Japanese Restaurant.

A spread at Barcha.

 

Spaghetti Bros.
Marina
This upscale pasta house from a pair of Fog City alums redefines classics so well that you may never again think of your mother’s version. Housemade pasta is the star of the show: Macaroni and cheese comes in a green-chili salsa, and spaghetti is clad in pepper and parmesan. The high leather booths and dim lighting telegraph elegance, but the tiramisu with Nilla Wafers leaves you feeling like a kid again. 3213 Scott St. (near Chestnut St.), 415-400-8500
—Andrea Powell

Barcha
SoMa
SoMa’s newest Mediterranean spot comes from Kais Bouzidi, the French-Tunisian chef whose first restaurant, Sens, explores the same region. Here, the focus is on mezze, otherwise known as “small plates that you never want to end.” Potato-and-feta croquettes come in a creamy rouille sauce, and warm flatbread accompanies all manner of dips. Takeaway lunch boxes are available during the day, but this is food worth savoring slowly. 28 Fremont St. (near Mission St.), 415-957-5463
A.P.

Del Popolo
Nob Hill
The brick-and-mortar outpost of Jon Darsky’s popular pizza truck centers on a wood-burning oven that turns out extravagantly charred Neapolitan-style pies with crusts as puffy as a baby’s thigh and topped with ingredients like anchovies and ricotta salata. Though the pizzas are the main draw, don’t skip the vegetable-forward appetizers, which are seasonal and fabulous. 855 Bush St. (near Taylor St.), 415-589-7940
—Rebecca Flint Marx

An Japanese Restaurant
Japantown
This new project from former Koo owner Kiyoshi Hayakawa has the precision and intimacy of a Tiffany box. Whether you order the $80 omakase menu or à la carte, you’ll be rewarded with lush pieces of fish draped atop tiny balls of rice. The specialty plates are also eminently worthwhile: The aptly named Spoonful of Happiness, which involves a blob of monkfish pâté wrapped with whitefish, qualifies as a controlled substance. 22 Peace Plaza, Ste. 510 (near Laguna St.), 415-292-4886
—R.F.M


Originally published in the January issue of
San Francisco

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