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Four New Restaurants We’re Crazy For

 We check out Corridor, Agave Uptown, Two Birds/One Stone, and Dum. 

Agave Uptown's tasajo, made with grilled beef, onions, and mushrooms.

 

Corridor
Civic Center
For its third restaurant, the Hi Neighbor Group (Stones Throw, Trestle) has taken on counter service: Step into Corridor’s window-lined dining room and you’re given the choice of either ordering at the counter or sitting at the bar for a full-service meal. Either option will yield thoughtfully prepared grub: A tomato-and- burrata salad gets an assist from pistachio pesto and quinoa, while pan-roasted salmon, soft and blushing pink at its center, almost melts into the eggplant served at its side. It’s food that takes care of you, regardless of how you order it. 100 Van Ness Ave. (near Fell St.), 415-834-5684
—Rebecca Flint Marx

Agave Uptown
Oakland
Octavio Diaz, the chef behind the original Agave in Healdsburg, still won’t reveal his “secret” mole recipe, but he’s now sharing it with a lot more diners thanks to this Uptown expansion. As in wine country, the bar overflows with tequila and mezcal, and the menu brims with Oaxacan favorites like epazote empanadas and molotes. But the must-order remains the chicken mole, with its inky sauce composed of chocolate, chilies, and a great many herbs that will stay secret, no matter how many times you ask. 2135 Franklin St. (near 22nd St.), 510-288-3668
—Josh Sens

Two Birds/One Stone
St. Helena
Douglas Keane (Cyrus) is back, this time in a collaboration with the L.A.-based chef Sang Yoon. The pair have brought a bit of yakitori to St. Helena’s Freemark Abbey Winery. You’ll find wee helpings of melted cherry tomatoes in a sesame, white soy, and battera konbu broth; thin slices of lotus root kimchee; and deviled Jidori eggs punched up with wasabi and topped with gribenes. Gribenes and kimchee in a winery? Times have changed, and for the better. 3020 St. Helena Hwy. (near Byrd Hill Ln.), 707-302-3777
—R.F.M.

Dum
Mission
The former Local Mission Eatery space is now home to Dum, the latest food truck to get a brick-and-mortar upgrade. Owner Rupam Bhagat has expanded his mobile menu of Indian soul food; his famous chicken biryani is now joined by the likes of a very modern palak paneer—the spinach dish here presented as neat but tasty patties—and braised eggplant paired with quinoa and peanut-coconut sauce. It’s robust, spirited food that’s very much deserving of this new permanent stage. 3111 24th St. (near Folsom St.), 415-874-9045
—R.F.M.


Originally published in the September issue of
San Francisco

 

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