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Get In My Belly! The Top Things to Eat This Week
Rebecca Flint Marx | Photo: Sara Deseran | March 20, 2014
Guatemalan wieners, gelato, pizza, and biscuit sandwiches. Here's what's been feeding the passions of our food editors this week.
Global warming be damned, I'm going to embrace this amazing weather we've been having because, well, life is short and we need every excuse to eat a Guatemalan hot dog. (Hot weather=hot dogs, obviously.) So, over this past weekend, my family and I walked from our house in the Castro down to Los Shucos in the Mission. Los Shucos is a new, tiny to-go spot specializing in, obviously, the shuco—a glorious concoction of sliced Spanish chorizo, guac, blanched cabbage, mayo, and mustard, all stuffed into a big toasted bun. On the counter are big squeeze bottles of Salsa Chapina, a zippy green salsa that you definitely need an extra squeeze of. Los Shucos also sells bacon-wrapped hot dogs in all sorts of tempting variations. The difficult choice is yours to make. Or, like me, you can bring your kids with you and demand a taste of theirs. —S.D.
There are many good reasons to visit the Outer Sunset, particularly on a sunny day, but my new favorite one is Devil’s Teeth Baking Co. Or specifically its breakfast biscuit, which is big, beautiful, and buttery, a glutinous gentle giant that will lift your soul as it adds about 10 lbs. to your ass. It’s glorious, particularly when it’s crammed with a motherload of soft scrambled eggs and slices of avocado and tomato. The biscuit itself experiences a sort of ecstatic self-destruction while you’re eating it, which means that after you’re finished you get to pick big, fat crumbs off of your lap and prolong the joy just a little bit longer. If ever there was a reason to submit yourself to the whims of MUNI, it’s this. —R.F.M.
The deep Mission might not be the first place you'd think to go for great ice cream, but just a block down from Los Shucos is La Copa Loca Gelato, which a friend tipped me off to a while back, calling it the best gelato in the city. If the scoop I had is any indication of the quality of the rest of it, my friend wasn't wrong. It's pretty darn good. I ordered coconut, which hit just the right coconut note (bad coconut ice cream smacks of Tropicana sunscreen). And when my son and I walked back home through the Mission, past Bi-Rite Creamery with its line around the block, I felt a bit like yelling, "Suckers!" But I didn't. —S.D.
I finally made it to Josey Baker’s weekly pizza night at the Mill on Monday. I’m glad I did. The whole operation is very reminiscent of Toast Bar—the lines, the wait, the very bare-bones service. They just call your name and slap your slices on the counter, one stacked on top of the other with only a piece of paper between. It’s a kind of greasy affair, but in an agreeable way that gets the visceral appeal of shoving a hot, cheesy slice down your gullet, licking your fingers, and wiping them on your jeans. This Monday, the toppings were asparagus and cremini mushrooms, or ‘shrooms + gras in Josey speak. The whole thing was very J.B.: delicious, satisfying, and betraying a distinct hippie allegiance. The crust appeared to be whole wheat, which I always find dicey where pizza is concerned—no matter how pliant and tender it is, it still has that wholesome grit that makes you feel like you should be listening to “Free to Be You and Me.” That doesn’t have to be a bad thing, and in this case it wasn’t, but it definitely sets this pizza apart. If you like your slices on the virtuous side, Josey Baker has your number. But even if you don’t, he still has your number, because wholesome crust or no wholesome crust, it’s some very fine pizza. —R.F.M.
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