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Get in My Belly! The Top Things to Eat This Week
Rebecca Flint Marx | Photo: Campton Place | May 29, 2014
Rose-cardamom ice cream, egg salad, Indian brunch, and wild nettle panisse: What our food writers have been loving this week.
Over the long weekend I finally got around to checking out SHED, the big, gleaming market-cum-events space-cum-café that opened in Healdsburg last year. As its James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant Design would suggest, it’s quite beautiful in a soaring, haute Scandinavian sort of way. Think lots of white, in both décor and clientele. Shed also happens to sell some pretty great ice cream; my friend ordered a double cone with scoops of strawberry and rose-cardamom. In all honesty, the strawberry was a bit lackluster, thanks to an oddly icy texture and anemic flavor. But the rose-cardamom more than compensated for it—while I normally loathe rose flavoring for its uncomfortable resemblance to potpourri, it was so beautifully balanced with the cardamom that it made me rethink my deep-seated floral aversion. The rich, silky texture was likewise a win, so, well done, SHED. Everything’s coming up roses in Healdsburg.—R.F.M
On Monday night I was taken to dinner at Blue Plate, which is one of those quietly remarkable neighborhood restaurants that deserves to be on 100 Best Of lists but isn’t, probably because people are too busy taking it for granted. I loved everything I ate, but nothing quite so much as the wild nettle panisse. A panisse is a fried chickpea flour cake traditionally made in the south of France—the texture is sort of similar to polenta, but a shade lighter. Blue Plate makes theirs with wild nettle, which turns it a compelling shade of green, and serves it with buttermilk, rhubarb, whipped garlic, and tender chunks of artichoke. The clincher for me was the rhubarb, which is presented as a reduction of sorts—its sweet tang brought everything together for me, and also made me come perilously close to licking my plate.—R.F.M.
Il Cane Rosso is my go-to destination when I need a quick, easy dinner before heading somewhere for the evening, which is why I found myself there last night, eating an open-face egg salad sandwich. What can I say? ICR knows from egg salad. The mayo is applied with a generous but sane hand, the chopped eggs are just the right size, and the resulting concoction is then shot into umami orbit with the addition of anchovy butter. Never mind that the bread can barely hold it. That’s what a plate and fork are for.—R.F.M.
Breakfast might be the most important meal of the day, but it’s also the most boring. But chef Srijith Gopinathan at Campton Place breaks the breakfast monotony with a new Indian-inspired dishcalled appam (pictured above). It’s a crisp South Indian crepe, made from a rice batter fermented with coconut juice, served with a savory curry sauce, a poached egg, and a generous helping of fresh crab. Once I broke into that egg and mixed it together that tangy curry and crab, let’s just say the last thing I was missing was another eggs benedict for brunch.—Ted Gioia
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