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Magnificent Obsession: Michael Honey

"It's not so much a condiment as a main event."

Michael Huber's simple yet exquisite honey.

 

The glass jar’s label bears minimal text: “Michael,” inscribed in careful cursive; a post office box number in Cobb, California; the phrase “U.S. Grade A Honey”; and perhaps, depending on the honey’s provenance, the word “alfalfa” or “wildflower.” Little may be known about Michael Huber, the Lake County beekeeper behind that label, but all you really need to know is that his honey is exquisite.

Sweet, spicy, malty, and floral, it’s honey with nuance to rival wine’s, as sure a distillation of California terroir as a bottle of Beringer Private Reserve. Thick and pliant as warm taffy, it’s not so much a condiment as a main event, honey that you build a slice of toast or a bowl of oatmeal around.

Its label is simple for a reason: all of the complexity lies in the jar. Find it at the Berkeley Bowl.

2020 Oregon St. (at Shattuck Ave.), Berkeley, 510-843-6929

 

Originally published in the July issue of San Francisco.

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