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Select suds: Three great European beers at Bar Tartine

Many of the beers at Bar Tartine are fairly obscure but turn out to be quite versatile and pair well with Nick Balla’s acid-happy way in the kitchen.

1. Bayerischer Bahnh of Berliner Weisse, Germany A low alcohol content—just 3 percent—and slightly sour notes of lemon and under-ripe apricot make this an excellent match with almost everything on the menu, but I especially like it with the langos, a deep-fried Hungarian bread.

2. De Struise Svea IPA, Belgium A perfect antidote to overly hoppy IPAs, it has a lovely maltiness and a restrained bitter edge that pair well with the rich and complex flavors on the plate.

3. Haandbryggeriet Hesjeol Smoked Beer, Norway Made from grains dried with smoke, this beer has a lighter, crisper nature than you’d expect. But its smoky overtones merge beautifully with Balla’s meat dishes, and its well-honed edges allow it to play with dishes seasoned with vinegar.

Bar Tartine: 561 Valencia St., S.F., 415-487-1600

Read more about beer at Bar Tartine here.