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Short Orders: Dirty Water, Millennium, Belga, and Sequoia Diner

More new spots to try.

Erstwhile SF restaurant Millennium brings its vegan menu to a new location in Rockridge.

 

Dirty Water
Mid-Market
It may sound like a sewage treatment facility, but the Twitter building’s latest food tenant is instead a restaurant-bar-brewery armed with a so-called paleo-friendly menu. What that translates to is meat (like a slightly dry tri-tip sandwich) served on heavy plates—though there’s also foliage like “dirty greens,” a pile of lettuce and crispy kale doused with a surprisingly addictive charred-citrus vinaigrette. 1355 Market St. (near 10th St.) 888-393-0530
—Rebecca Flint Marx

Millennium
Rockridge
After losing its San Francisco home of more than 20 years, this pioneering vegan restaurant has relocated to Rockridge—but Eric Tucker’s menu has remained refined, creative, and animal-free. A red-corn masa tamale is arrayed in a sweet corn–poblano stew, while gochuiang and kimchee take tempeh for a Korean joyride. Though the seasoning isn’t always as assertive as it could be, the food has an earthy appeal. 5912 College Ave. (near Chabot Rd.), Oakland, 510-735-9459
—R.F.M.

Belga
Cow Hollow
Prolific restaurateur Adriano Paganini (Beretta, Delarosa) has turned his attention to Belgium, bringing its moules frites to a sprawling space accented by red banquettes and a surfeit of hard surfaces that build a deafening wall of sound. The food has quieter virtues: Though a wheat beer–heavy broth smothers the flavor of pan-roasted mussels, a salad of bibb lettuce, radishes, and chèvre is sweet simplicity incarnate. 2000 Union St. (at Buchanan St.), 415-872-7350
—R.F.M.

Sequoia Diner
Laurel
With fresh-baked sticky buns and finicky sourcing, this is a kind of finer diner, offering breakfast and lunch basics smartly done. Satisfying standards are here—like a spinach-and-mushroom scramble, or huevos rancheros—as are wedges of watermelon and tomato topped with fresh mint and cotija cheese. With its red vinyl booths and counter seating, the place meets your diner expectations—but the strawberry-plum pie with almond streusel far exceeds them. 3719 MacArthur Blvd. (near Brown Ave.), Oakland, 510-482-3719
—Josh Sens

 

Originally published in the September issue of San Francisco

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