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Catamarin cruising-and dolphin spotting-off Kauai's Na Pali coast.

Photo:  Monica and Michael Sweet

Kukuiula's on-property farm.

Photo: Courtesy of Kaukuiula

One of the the resort's cush two-bedroom cottages.

Photo: Courtesy of Kaukuiula

Work on nothing but your suntan

A just-opened development on Kauai's South Shore lets you loll in the land of plush. 

Kauai, the oldest island in the Hawaiian chain, is the most resistant to tired tropical tropes. Though a traveler can get lei’d and fed at a kitschy luau, this is not the place for just-add-water Polynesia. So when Kukuiula—a new high-end residential club that’s opening a cluster of 15 vacation cottages late this summer—says it aims to tap the essence of the real Kauai, it’s unclear exactly what that means.

     But after a few low-key days on the sprawling property, you’ll know. Kukuiula is understated; it’s real (Willi, a Kauai native, greets you not with a canned “Aloha!” but with a soft “Welcome home”); it’s indulgence without fanfare. And while there’s some mingling in the $100 million central clubhouse (plantation style, circa 1900s), there’s so much space—the cottages are spread out, the property expansive—that you feel like you have the place to yourself. If you see other people, you’re apt to think, There go some of the other fortunate few.

     Kukuiula stretches across what used to be a sugar plantation on bluffs overlooking Poipu Bay. A discreet sign marks the turnoff (Kauai is not an island of gates and guards) to a sleepy entrance road, which spills through fields of wildflowers. The cottages, as well as a constellation of custom homes, orbit the clubhouse and give you access to all club amenities: several swimming pools, a spa, and customized activities including paddleboarding, kayaking, and deep-sea fishing.

     Kukuiula’s other selling point has to be the food. True to Hawaii’s farm-to-table roots (which existed long before the current locavore movement), the club harvests produce from an on-property farm, a hilltop Eden where breadfruit and mango trees ring tidy rows of eggplant, watercress, and tomatoes. Pick all you want for a home-cooked meal or leave the duties to chef Ben Takahashi, who worked at a host of high-end resorts before arriving at a place where “if I want an ingredient, I don’t have to wait three weeks for it to arrive on a barge.”

     This being Hawaii, there’s also a spec-tac-ular golf course. Designed by Tom Weiskopf, an icon of the game, it winds past coffee bushes, citrus groves, and star fruit orchards: On every hole grows something you can either eat or wear. Kikui nut trees, which flank the par-four second, produce the hardened shells that are used to fashion leis. Experts at the club will even help you make one.

     The end of the day here is a no-brainer: Just settle into a comfy chair on the clubhouse’s wraparound lanai, sip some wine (or a locally sourced carrot juice–ginger shooter), and soak up ocean views.


JUST ADD HULA SKIRT: All the resources you need to make Hawaii your reality.

AIRLINES
United Airlines (operated by Continental Airlines) now offers weekly flights from San Francisco to Hilo (Hawaii Island). 800-864-8331, united.com
Hawaiian Airlines has begun nonstop service from San Jose to Maui and added year-round direct flights from Oakland to Kaului (Maui). 800-367-5320, hawaiianair.com
Alaska Airlines has added nonstop flights from Oakland and San Jose to Lihue (Kauai) and Kona (Hawaii Island). 800-252-7522, alaskaair.com

The adventurer’s Big Island
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: 808-985-6000, nps.gov/havo.

Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station: 808-961-2180, ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis.

Shipman House Bed & Breakfast: 808-934-8002, hilo-hawaii.com, from $205.

Mauna Kea Beach Hotel: 808-882-7222, princeresortshawaii.com, from $399.

Ocean Sports (gear for water activities at Kaunaoa Bay): 808-886-6666, hawaiioceansports.com.

Kohala Zipline: 808-331-3620, kohalazipline.com. Kona Honu Divers (manta ray dive): 808-324-4668, konahonudivers.com.

Hilo Bay Café: 808-935-4939, hilobaycafe.com. Waianuhea: 808-775-1118, waianuhea.com, from $210.

Mandara Spa (at Mauna Kea Beach Hotel): 808-882-5630, mandaraspa.com.

The meditator’s Maui
Travaasa Hana: 808-248-8211, travaasa.com/hana, from $425.

Get the indispensable guidebook Maui Revealed for spot-on directions and information on Hana Highway, Black Sand Beach, Red Sand Beach, and Venus Pool. Kahanu Garden: 808-248-8912, ntbg.org.

Hana Ranch Restaurant: 808-248-8255.

The kid minder’s Oahu
Aston Waikiki Beach Tower: 808-926-6400, astonhotels.com, from $326.

Island Grocery Service: 808-922-4670, islandgroceryservice.com.

Kuhio Beach Park: oceansafety.ancl.hawaii.edu.

Hans Hedemann Surf: 808-924-7778, hhsurf.com.

Leonard’s Bakery: 808-737-5591, leonardshawaii.com.

Tiki’s Grill and Bar: 808-923-8454, tikisgrill.com.

Aulani Resort & Spa: 808-674-6200, resorts.disney.go.com, from $499.

Waimea Valley: waimeavalley.net.

Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck: 808-293-1839, giovannisshrimptruck.com.

Matsumoto Shave Ice: 808-637-4827, matsumotoshaveice.com.

Haleiwa Farmers’ Market: haleiwafarmersmarket.com.

Honolulu Museum of Art: 808-532-8700, honoluluacademy.org.

The wanderer’s Kauai
Hanalei Colony Resort: 808-826-6235, hcr.com.

Kayak Kauai: 808-826-9844, kayakkauai.com.

Na Pali Coast State Wilderness Park: 808-587-0300, hawaiistateparks.org.

Limahuli Garden and Preserve: 808-826-1053, ntbg.org/gardens/limahuli.php.

Village Snack and Bakery: 808-826-6841.

Hanalei Community Center: Concerts Fridays at 4 p.m. and Sundays at 3 p.m., admission $20, 808-826-1011, halehalawai.org.

Tahiti Nui: 808-826-6277, thenui.com.

Hanalei Dolphin Fish Market: 808-826-6113, hanaleidolphin.com.

Kauai Grill (at St. Regis Princeville Resort): 808-826-9644, kauaigrill.com.

The lounger’s Kauai
Kukuiula: 808-742-2000, kukuiula.com, from $1,200 a night.

RELATED STORIES:

BIG ISLAND - Push the adrenaline button.
MAUI - Pondering the meaning of ahhh.
OAHU - Bring the kids. Really.
KAUAI - Romp on the island of natural delight.