Another Watershed Moment

During a recent meal at Watershed, I took a mental inventory of the dining clientele. To my right, a finely manicured sixtysomething nibbling on pimento cheese dip, in the center a hipster group of thirtysomethings drinking red wine, texting and talking to their boyfriends, and to my left, a serious business lunch.
Based on this diverse crowd, I’d venture to say that despite the changes that have taken place in the past year with the departure of this iconic restaurant’s original chef, Scott Peacock, Watershed remains one of Atlanta’s go-to places for the Southern experience. Once a pioneer in the field of elegant Southern cuisine (Peacock showed us that butter beans could indeed be fancy), Watershed is now one of many restaurants with locavore overtones and farm-to-table, from-scratch goodness that flaunts what the South has to offer.

Enter chef Joe Truex. The former owner and chef of the highly regarded Repast, Truex is the new talent in Watershed’s kitchen. With a nod to the storied history of this Decatur icon, he is careful to note, “We wanted to be sure to keep the integrity of Watershed, but still show it as a restaurant on the edge. I’ve got 12 years of history I have to respect.”

Yet, his personal style naturally bubbles up, and at times, it seems the Southern “format” of this kitchen isn’t really big enough for Truex to truly flex his culinary muscle (just where can he use a dashi broth on this menu?). But we still get to love on the Tuesday fried chicken and pimento cheese and celery. Indeed, many of the restaurant’s iconic dishes are still in play. The butter bean hummus is as silky and bewitching as ever. The sauté of wild mushrooms with country ham and cheese toast still works as an earthy comfort food. And of course, where would we be without the tender white truffle chicken salad heaped high on homemade bread?

The new menu items are clearly a work in progress, with some big hits and a few misses, but at least this is where we get to taste what Truex can do. Savory touches, such as smoked tasso in his Grilled Georgia Quail dish or a smoky buttermilk dressing on his fried flounder topped with mizuna, add the just-right note. The shrimp-and-crab burger is one of the most popular new items, with its real burger texture and lovely char—it is nice, but an uninspiring dish compared to the exquisite chicken and dumplings. Soulful and savory, dotted with carrots and flecked with herbs, the latter dish is not at all the predictably bland experience I’ve come to expect with dumplings, testimony to Truex’s mastery of flavorful nuances.

He’s also having some fun with other dishes, like the beef brisket “Sloppy Joe” and crawfish pies—essentially Cajun riffs on empanadas, stuffed with creamy crawfish étouffée and deep-fried. The cornmeal-dusted scallops look likely to become a new classic, with a feathery coating of cornmeal for a nice crunch. Spear a bite of scallop and drag it through the butter bean puree for a bite of homespun elegance at its best.

Right now, Truex is crafting two new menu items every two weeks and running heaps of specials. During one visit, I thoroughly enjoyed a roasted duck special (not a bird you’d typically see at Watershed) finished with cane syrup and mustard sauce over julienned brussels sprouts. And, as is always the case in Southern cooking, the sides do matter. Best bets are the creamy coleslaw and mac and cheese; it’s best to pass, however, on the not-so-gingery gingered beets.
As for finishing touches, we all know and love the chocolate cake at Watershed—it’s a gold-plated winner and has been for years. Yet, Truex loves a good dessert—the man has some serious skill with pastries, and his new coconut cream pie is testimony to his talent. Large enough for two, this confection arrives with pillows of coconut cream piled atop a nutty crust crafted using Anson Mills rice flour.

Change is moving along, but at a relaxed pace. The seafoam green, airy feel is still there, along with many of the menu classics. The always interesting and thoughtfully sourced wine list continues to evolve; Truex is a passionate wine enthusiast, and it shows. I’d love to see some crafty pairings on the menu—just what would Joe drink with his Sloppy Joe? And they’ve added a new afternoon tea service on Saturdays—perfect for the ladies who lunch.

Watershed might be arriving at another watershed moment in its evolution. With some fine-tuning of the culinary vision in the kitchen and the devotion to local, sustainable principles in the ownership, it has the potential to experience an inspired rebirth. Truex knows he has time on his side: “That’s what’s good about the South,” he notes. “We take it slow.”

Watershed
Rating ***

406 W. Ponce De Leon Ave.

404.378.4900
watershedrestaurant.com

What the stars mean:
*= fair, some noteworthy qualities
**= good, above average
***= very good, well above norm
****= excellent, among the area’s best
*****= world-class, extraordinary

Reviews are based on multiple visits. Ratings reflect the reviewer’s overall reaction to food, ambience and service.

What to Order Chicken and dumplings, cornmeal-dusted scallops, coconut cream pie.

Fair Warning The seating by the glass doors can get chilly; opt for a table closer to the interior if you can. Parking is dicey on weekends, so budget extra time for hoofing it a block or two if you can’t find a space in the small lot.

HOURS Monday through Saturday 11am–10pm; Sunday Brunch 10am–2pm; Limited menu between the hours of 3pm and 5pm

PRICES Starters and salads, $7-$15; sandwiches, $8-$14; entrees,
$12-$32; desserts, $8