Changes in Attitude

After basking in the sunny, rustic flavors of the Mediterranean, chef Micah Willix has snatched up his pecorino-and-prosciutto-stained passport and sailed out of Midtown’s Ecco. Geographically, this exciting young chef has traveled just a few degrees north up Peachtree for his first solo effort. But gastronomically, with the opening of the aptly named Latitude at Phipps Plaza, he has embarked on the equivalent of a round-the-world pleasure cruise.

Latitude—a classy, comfortable resto designed by Atlantan Brian Watford in soothing greens and borders of tiny tiles suggesting the phosphorescence of seashells—is a welcome facelift to the space that was formerly The Grape. Though Willix has shifted his axis to include Latin American and Pacific influences, he remains grounded in the foundation of cooking that caught the eye of Esquire back in 2006, when that magazine named Ecco one of America’s best new restaurants. The line on his new global experience: polished comfort. Willix is still procuring top-notch ingredients—local when he can—and is preparing them simply with impeccable technique, and still showcasing his work in a hip urban space.

So after a hectic morning browsing Chanel and Valentino, you may crash at Latitude for a luxurious lunch of, say, grilled chicory greens, soft-boiled egg and chèvre. Feel free to wash that runny-protein salad (the best kind!) down with a lemony Spanish albariño or peppery malbec. The excellent list of 60 straightforward and intelligent bottles gets high marks, too. If you are lucky enough to have the court-jester (aka server) who goes by the name of Paymon, he just might overfill your glass because he knows you love it—and he knows he’s not supposed to. As for heartier lunch fare, everyone’s clammering on about the lamb-and-beef burger with Gruyère, arugula and rosemary aioli—you should fully intend to make a date of it soon.

When supper rolls around, Latitude is the kind of place where you can orchestrate a dressy, lollingly paced, lovingly crafted three-hour meal in the handsome wine room. And if Willix has his way, it will begin with simple, almost naked food and end with sweet nothings and a bang of caffeine (local Lakehouse Coffee). In his swimming new space, this chef likes to splash around with the barely clad (beef tartare, scallop crudo), and pair ingredients into dangerously delicious, sometimes ironic bedfellows (pork sausage with cherries, for example.) “Crudo” is what the Italians call their raw fish and Willix puts out three a night. Here, the kitchen mingles Atlantic yellowfin tuna with lime juice and charred avocado, and drizzles just a splash of Champagne vinegar over day-boat scallops with hints of fennel and saffron. Sweet. Nice. Like a kiss from the sea.

Whatever you do, night or day, don’t leave this joint without wallowing in a bowl of crispy eggplant, pan-fried to crunchy perfection and coddled with luscious house-made ricotta, slightly nectarous tomato conserves and pine nuts. If you see me back there again and again, my taste buds made me do it.

Always one to savor the season, Willix’s winter menu is an object lesson in dusky, autumnal pairings: Seared duck sits on a bed of long-tentacled oyster mushrooms braised with bacon and shallots. A juicy red steak comes with sautéed escarole and a side of deeply smoked fingerling potatoes. These spuds are a one-of-a-kind sensory experience that will linger long on the tastebuds.

Willix is also in charge of desserts and pastries. And, well, dang, wouldn’t you know he is no slouch in that department, either? Doughnut holes with plum jam. (Not bad in a sweet, sticky, Krispy Kreme-y kinda way.) Walnut cake smothered in Georgia apples and mulled cider sorbet. (We’re getting there.) Pumpkin pot de crème with a crunchy hazelnut crust. (OK. Mind blown.) Don’t you dare think about putting your spoon in my pot o’ pumpkin perfection. I’m greedy. I won’t share.

As your sugar high perks you up, take time to stir about the intimate 75-seat space. It is elegant without being stuffy: dark wood tables sans the white cloths, Edison-bulb chandeliers, those peaceful hues of cream and seaweed. When the weather is fair, there is room for 30 more bodies on the outdoor patio. We do not expect the energy level to remain chill. So let us embrace the calm seas while we can. Let us slide into a leather banquette and let Willix guide the boat. He’s the captain of Latitude. He’s earned our trust.

Latitude
***
3500 Peachtree Road
678.990.9463
latitudeatlanta.com

Hours
Open daily. Lunch: 11am-5pm Mon.-Fri.; 11:30am-5pm Sat.-Sun. Dinner: 5-10pm Mon.-Thu.; 5-11pm Fri. and Sat.; 5-9pm Sun.

Parking
Pay valet; plenty of free parking at Phipps Plaza.

Dress
Anything goes. (It’s a mall.) Fun and fashionable a plus.

Cost
Appetizers, salads, shares: $8-$13; entrées: $11-$14 at lunch; $19-$29 at dinner. Desserts: $7