THE RESTAURANT
Tucked along Little Santa Monica Boulevard, 88 Club is the kind of restaurant that feels instantly at home in Beverly Hills but still offers something fresh. James Beard–nominated chef and Top Chef winner Mei Lin, who recently ran the acclaimed restaurant Nightshade in DTLA, and restaurateur Francis Miranda have created a space that pays homage to the flavors Lin grew up with, while presenting them through a refined, contemporary lens. The family-style menu is designed for sharing, with dishes that are both deeply comforting and unexpectedly inventive. It’s an approach that makes 88 Club feel personal, but also incredibly ambitious—yet never at the expense of the diner’s experience.
The moody atmosphere
Photo Courtesy of Brand
THE VIBE
When my husband and I arrive on a Saturday night, the dining room is already humming. The atmosphere is dark, moody and mysterious, but punctuated by bright, playful art on the walls that brings a welcome splash of energy. Designed by Preen, the space balances sophistication with warmth—jade details, rich woods and plush seating give it weight, while rose accents soften the edges. A separate bar area glows with its own cool energy, buzzing with conversation and cocktails, while the petite main dining room beckons with a fragrant aromas and a chic, sophisticated vibe. Service throughout the evening is warm and confident—you feel taken care of without being fussed over.
THE DRINKS
88 Club’s cocktail program mirrors the kitchen’s philosophy: familiar but layered with interesting twists. I start with a Mai Tai, bold with Jamaican and Guyanese overproof rums, softened by Chinese rhubarb and amaro—it is punchy, complex and beautifully balanced. My husband opts for the zero-proof Negroni, which impresses both of us with its smoky lapsang souchong and bittersweet pomegranate depth. The wine list leans French, thoughtful without being intimidating, but the cocktails steal the show. Even the non-alcoholic offerings seem crafted with as much intention as the boozier ones, a detail that speaks to the restaurant’s inclusive, celebratory spirit.
Sesame prawn toast
Photo Courtesy of 88 Club
THE FOOD
Our meal starts off light and bright with a cucumber and woodear mushroom salad, the soy vinaigrette sharpening the textures into something greater than the sum of its parts. Next comes the Instagram-famous sesame prawn toast—golden, crispy and lifted with a hot mustard aioli that provides a satisfying jolt. The Singaporean chow mein arrives as a tumble of curried vermicelli and market vegetables, deeply fragrant yet airy enough to keep coming back for more. Then comes the showstopper: cha siu made with Iberico pork. Tender, glossy and lacquered just so, it has a balance of richness and heat that makes you pause between bites. Even the sides impress—the charred hot and sour cabbage is smoky, tangy and unexpectedly addictive. Dessert leans subtle and elegant: almond pudding with Harry’s Berries, lychee and marzipan, a finale that refreshes rather than overwhelms. Each dish is plated with fine-dining precision, yet carries the soul of comfort food—proof of Lin’s mastery in straddling both worlds.
FINAL THOUGHTS
By the time we finish, we are already plotting our return—what to reorder, what new dishes to try and whether we’d start at the bar next time before sitting down. 88 Club captures something rare: an elevated dining experience that doesn’t feel overly precious. It’s elegant but lively, polished but personal. Between the thoughtful service, inventive cocktails and a menu that celebrates both tradition and reinvention, Mei Lin has created a restaurant that stands out in a city spoiled with options. Beverly Hills has no shortage of fine dining, but 88 Club feels like the one you’ll keep coming back to—for milestones, for date nights or simply for the joy of eating really delicious food.
