There are some evenings when a night out means a short walk to a favorite neighborhood spot for a quiet meal. But then there are those times when the sun sets, and an outfit designed to get noticed beckons. When one wants to be immersed in the buzz, noise and vibe of a place. Where glasses beg to be raised and guests to be spoiled. When a night calls for a momentary escape from the ordinary into a world constructed for decadence, Avra (theavragroup.com) is the destination.
The oven-baked Chilean sea bass "Plaki" with Vidalia onions, potatoes and herbs in a light tomato fish broth.
On the Wednesday night that we dined, it was clear from the packed room that Boston had been eagerly anticipating this opening. Avra’s first location was in Manhattan in 2000, the vision of restaurateur Nick Tsoulos, who grew up in the Greek village of Nafpaktos, and nightlife titan and real estate mogul Marc Packer, co-founder of Tao Group Hospitality. Boston marks the eighth location following additional openings in New York City, as well as in Beverly Hills, Dallas and Miami.
Freshly shucked oysters.
Walking into the foyer, with a hostess stand beneath a giant, curvaceous staircase that holds its secrets at the top, suggests a bouncer at the red ropes of an exclusive club. At the top of the staircase, one is greeted by Avra’s bright, buzzy world inspired by seaside tavernas on Greece’s coast. Tables are dressed in white linens and expertly attended to by servers in white tuxedo jackets who also act as escorts to the restaurant’s in-house fish market, flanking the open kitchen. Here, whole, in-season, wild-caught fish flown in fresh from the Mediterranean, lie upon beds of ice, staring as if begging to be chosen. Each guest is introduced to their origin and flavor profile, and, when selected, the fish is hand-delivered to the kitchen to be charcoal-grilled specially for its diners. Our whole branzino was first encrusted in salt, then cracked open and filleted tableside, finished simply with Avra’s signature ladolemono sauce.
The classic Greek salad.
But it isn’t all spectacle. The food is rather straightforward, prioritizing simple preparations to let ingredients shine like wild-grown oregano, cheese from the Greek mountains and produce thoughtfully sourced from family farms. Our favorite dish was the Chilean sea bass souvlaki grilled to buttery perfection and served over a roasted red pepper sauce. We also loved the Avra chips of crispy zucchini and eggplant served with tzatziki, the giant lima beans braised in tomato sauce, and the oyster mushrooms grilled and topped with graviera cheese.
A spread of dishes including the Avra chips.
Whether dressed up or casual, quietly listening or laughing uproariously, the real event should always be the party for our taste buds. At Avra, the celebration is in full swing.
