Over the past few years, Careyes has continuously appeared on the social media feeds of some of my most chic, in-the-know friends. What I saw on my screen—bold, colorful architecture, sculptural forms and pristine stretches of beach—was enticing and mysterious. What exactly was this magical place? A hotel? A resort? A community?
Luckily for me, all was revealed when I had the opportunity to visit—including the reason this seaside sanctuary on Mexico’s coastline is still under the radar. Getting there is definitely part of the journey. After landing at Manzanillo International, a driver and I traveled along windy jungle roads for about 90 minutes before arriving at the gates. (Puerto Vallarta Airport, which is larger and has more flights in and out, is about three and a half hours away.)
Large palapas like the ones seen at Casa Selva—the six-bedroom villa designed by renowned French architect Jean-Claude Galibert—are a characteristics of Careyes style.
The long journey was worth it once I settled into my beautiful, colorful casita overlooking the sparkling sea and I had a moment to take it all in: the stunning ocean views, the sounds of birds singing, and the scent of the salty air and thick jungle mingling together.
The architecture in Careyes is unlike anywhere else—vivid, sculptural homes perched along the cliffs, blending Mediterranean and pre-Hispanic influences. Casitas de las Flores, where I stayed, is a community of hillside villas painted in bold colors, with paths filled with sculptures, fountains and flowers around every turn. Those seeking more privacy and space may prefer to rent one of the stunning villas or ocean castles, designed by architects including Alberto Mazzoni, Jean-Claude Galibert and Diego Villaseñor, while those looking for a more social setting can book a stay at El Careyes Club & Residences, which feels more like a traditional hotel. Regardless of the accommodation type, each stay is curated, offering privacy, a full staff upon request and an intimate connection to the surroundings.
Besides its remote location, what makes Careyes so special is built into its history. When Gianfranco Brignone discovered this stretch of land decades ago, the bon vivant convinced many of his aristocratic friends— like the Agnellis of Fiat fame—to visit and invest in the community. Nowadays, Careyes is still an international community of artists, intellectuals and European cognoscenti, living in the now and embracing the slow rhythm of life.
Spanning over 46,000 acres—definitely arrange to have a car on property—Careyes consists of beaches, villas, casitas, pools, restaurants, shops, galleries and more. The vibe is less resort and more “choose your own adventure,” with boat rides, yoga classes, beach walks, swimming and dining at your fingertips. Besides beach time on the beautiful Playa Rose, reading beside my private pool at the villa, and visiting shops and the gallery at the Plaza de los Caballeros del Sol cultural square, I took a yoga class at Casa Corazón, where the humid air helped loosen my limbs, and the thick jungle leaves made for a truly unforgettable “studio” setting.
Yoga at Casa Corazón.
Dining is an extension of the Careyes experience. Playa Rosa restaurant offers Mediterranean-Mexican flavors by the sea, La Coscolina embraces Moroccan and plant-based cuisine, while Pueblo 25 presents an intimate fine dining experience with an extensive wine collection. Shio Sushi surprises with Edomae-style sushi, bringing world-class flavors to this remote paradise. My favorite restaurant, Lilo Beach Club, serves top-notch pizza, crudo, salads and more against a backdrop of stylish guests speaking multiple languages and the DJ’s soulful selections. But the very best meals I had were spent with the new friends I made, at their private villas and casitas.
Beyond relaxation and dining, Careyes offers several key events that draw in visitors from around the world, including the Chinese New Year festival in January; the Agua Alta Polo Tournament in mid-April; and OndaClassica in November, which this year will focus more on jazz, opera and world music, as opposed to mostly electronic music in the past.
There were so many memorable moments on this trip, but one that stands out is the sunset sound bath at Copa del Sol, an awe-inspiring concrete bowl on the cliffs above the crashing sea. As I lay on my back inside the dome absorbing rhythmic beats and powerful shamanic chants, I was able to truly take in that exact moment of time, one I won’t ever forget.
Careyes allows you to do just that. This is a place where the cosmopolitan meets the untamed, a retreat that leaves an imprint on the soul.
