As the streets of New York bounce with the energy of spring, it’s time to return to our favorite activity: shopping.
If you're looking for a truly unique shopping experience this weekend, head over to the first-ever pop-up from 'girl of the earth,' a vintage-fabric womenswear line.
Luckily, we had the pleasure of chatting with Ruby Sinclair, the founder and designer behind the 'few-of-a-kind™' label.
Can you talk about your journey in creating girl of the earth? When did you first decide to start the brand?
I grew up with nutty antique-dealer parents, so I’ve been exposed to vintage and secondhand since birth and would consider myself in many ways an expert. After graduating with a master’s degree in entrepreneurship from London College of Fashion (2017), I wanted to start an eco-friendly womenswear brand, but simultaneously was horrified by all the greenwashing happening in fashion, with trendy ‘sustainable’ brands often pushing ‘organic cotton’ and other fabrics that are only minimally better than the norm. I was drawn to the idea of upcycling, where I wouldn’t have to conduct research/trust dubious manufacturers/etc to know that there’s zero environmental impact in the creation of my garments. Probably somewhere at a flea market, I had the idea to create womenswear out of vintage fabric remnants, combining my newfound love of upcycling and my comfort zone of vintage.
Because of my upbringing, I’m lucky to have inherited and cultivated relationships with antique suppliers, flea market owners, eccentric grandmas, and just plain hoarders, who I consistently buy vintage fabric remnants from. It’s a super unconventional supply chain and requires my expertise (and a lot of luck), but basically I’m just really really good at shopping! After a couple of failed attempts, I found my seamstress in mid-2019 and the girl of the earth brand was born!
P.S. With near-zero financial backing (except a small holiday present of $2000 from my dad to start the brand), I was barely chugging along, and I was starting to feel pretty discouraged. When the pandemic hit, I was quarantining at home with my mom in NYC and on government orders, sewed face-masks for us to leave the house, using tiny bits of 1960s fabric I found in my late grandmother’s sewing kit. I put the masks on Instagram and literally that day had thousands of orders. Because my seamstress was super busy sewing gowns, masks, etc. for hospitals, I took charge and sewed all girl of the earth masks myself. It was the craziest 3 months of my life. From the moment I woke up to the moment I went to sleep I was cutting, sewing, and packing, but I’m so grateful for the way it jumpstarted the brand. To this day I still get orders with little notes saying “so excited for this purchase, I found you back in May 2020 through face masks!”
What are some sources of inspiration that influence your design aesthetic?
My design process is actually very different from a traditional designer’s. Instead of coming up with an idea from scratch, I usually find the fabrics first and work backward. I’ve also learned to keep the silhouettes simple so the fabrics can speak for themselves. Lots of seams, buttons, etc just detract from the (stunning) prints. Lastly, I’m a die-hard fan of backless tops, mini skirts, strapless things, and wide-leg shorts/trousers, so you’ll see a lot of those with inspo from random photos of stylish girls in the 1970s.
How and why did you develop a love for vintage textiles? How would you define the importance of vintage fashion?
As I mentioned vintage fashion was something I was unable to escape from a young age, so an interest in vintage textiles was an easy transition. In my opinion, the best thing about vintage fabrics (besides sustainability) is the scarcity. I usually find about 4 meters left of a fabric remnant and sew 5 identical units. This means you can shop our great silhouettes in a fabric that only YOU will have. It’s hyper-individualism in a world of Zaras. We call girl of the earth pieces “few-of-a-kind™”. It's hyper-individualism in a world of Zaras. Avoid matching strangers, get a piece that is uniquely yours.
And why is vintage fashion important? So many reasons— first and foremost, items’ environmental impacts are written off after 20+ years, so vintage IS the most sustainable way to shop (and must be distinguished from deadstock, read my rant here). Furthermore, it’s important for its individuality, history, irreplicable prints, nostalgia, high-quality, resale value, lack of wastefulness, and so much more!
See Also: More Than Just a Pretty Face- Layna Boo
What are you most proud of so far in terms of girl of the earth’s brand evolution?
I’m most proud when I see my stylish friends wearing their girl of the earth pieces on repeat. Everyone tells me that they get a ton of compliments when wearing their pieces and that they fit better than anything else in their closet (silhouette is so so important to me). Also, I’ve been incredibly proud when Gotham Mag, Man Repeller, Seventeen, Coveteur, and V Mag rated girl of the earth as “one of the best upcycling brands to know right now.” Those were pinch-me moments!
How would you describe your personal style?
I have so much respect for designers who can create with others in mind, but I fully design for myself, so girl of the earth really reflects my personal style. I always use the word effortless as I hate to look too done-up or trying-hard. Although many girl of the earth pieces have statement prints, they’re meant to be the hero of the outfit, worn with solids or muted looks. Lastly, when getting dressed I have this constant narrative of balance in the back of my mind. I’ll pair a casual vintage tee and oversized shorts with dressy little sling-backs, or a feminine flounce skirt with heroin-chic lace-up boots. There has to be some edge to every outfit I style!
The fashion retail space is dominated by fast fashion. What is the importance of shopping sustainable? How is sustainability central to your brand’s mission?
I wrote my undergraduate and postgraduate dissertations on the environmental impact of fashion. It’s a horrible, wasteful industry and has only been accelerating since the 1970s. To me, the worst part about it is the lack of fulfillment. As a society we used to shop in a whole different way, buying costly high-quality pieces every once in a while and wearing them over and over again. It was a much more fulfilling way to consume clothing.
On a more positive note, people are more aware than ever, and specifically realize that secondhand & vintage are the #1 most environmentally ways to shop (clothing, furniture, food, literally anything). I remember people shrugging off my mom selling vintage as quaint, but now it’s cool. I encourage everyone to find their staples used, and every now and then, purchase gorgeous unique pieces of art from small Instagram brands like girl of the earth.
Define the girl of the earth girl. What type of woman do you envision wearing your designs?
Our “girls” are so versatile, but if I had to say: they’re often city-dwellers who care about fashion, use it as a tool to express themselves, but also don’t take it too seriously. They’re usually not into logos (or high-luxury brands). They aren’t afraid of a bold print or a backless top and probably have various screenshots of 1970s outfits littered throughout their phone. They have some warm vintage coats in their closets but are ultimately are summer-babies and thrive in warm weather. Lastly, of course, shopping sustainably— in fashion, furniture, food, etc— is super important to them.
How do you envision girl of the earth growing in the next few years?
The brand is growing fast but by very nature can never be huge and that’s what makes it special. In coming years, I hope for more brand awareness, pop-ups around the world, and lots of new customers who truly adore their unique vintage-fabric pieces <3
Who are your fashion design icons?
Ossie Clark, and my grandmother, Penelope Casas, a successful Spanish chef/writer who made all her own clothes (even some I inherited and inspired several girl of the earth styles, check out the Santiago top!).
This week you’re hosting girl of the earth’s first pop-up shop. Tell us about it!
I am SO excited to host our first-ever pop-up shop! We’ll be at 251 Elizabeth Street in Nolita, NYC from the 5th of April through the 10th from 11 AM to 8 PM daily. We’re also hosting a HAPPY HOUR PARTY (RSVP here!) on Friday night (8th) from 5 PM onwards. At the party (and all week while shopping!) we’ll have free glasses of vino Verde. Plus-ones and dogs are welcome, too!
