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Cala: Not Just Another Taqueria

Gabriela Cámara changed how Mexico City eats. Now she's coming to San Francisco.

 

Back in her native Mexico City, Gabriela Cámara is a legend, a prolific restaurateur who changed the face of the city’s dining scene when she opened her first restaurant, Contramar, in 1998. Her conceit—so simple in retrospect—was to bring ceviche, tostadas, and fresh, simply prepared seafood to a populace at the time accustomed to what Cámara calls “sauced-up, dried-out fish.”

So consider us lucky that Cámara’s new place,Cala, will bestow similar delights upon San Francisco when it opens near the Civic Center in early August, showcasing local, sustainable seafood as well as seasonal vegetables and housemade tortillas. The tortillas, which will be made from corn grown in the Central Valley, will also star at a taco stand near Cala’s rear entrance. “I thought, what am I going to do here?” the 12-time restaurateur recalls of her
decision to move to San Francisco. “Open a restaurant.”

 

 


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