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Charcuterie to watch

A charcutier cooking from his gut

Scott Brennan first started making charcuterie when he was working in the kitchen of a private country club outside of St. Louis. Members would bring in game that they had shot on hunting trips and request a meal for a small group. One of the sous-chefs, who was also a hunter, taught Brennan how to skin and butcher venison and wild boar. The meals they prepared rarely required the entire beast, so the two cooks would stay after their shift to make jerky, fresh and smoked sausages, and pâté from any unused meat. Now, following in the footsteps of so many successful artisanal food businesses (Blue Bottle Coffee, Blue Chair Fruit Company, and Tartine Bakery, to name just a few), Brennan has set up a stand at the farmers’ market, where he sells freshly cured meats. Everything in the barnyard is fair game—goats, ducks, rabbits, chickens, sheep, and hogs all end up in his crépinettes and galantines. As the name of his business, the Fifth Quarter Charcuterie, suggests, Brennan focuses on offal, so there’s always something made with liver, blood, or tongue. Available at the Saturday Berkeley Farmers’ Market, Center St.

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