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Consider the Egg

In a new cookbook, Lucky Peach takes on the incredible, edible egg.

 

“Eggs are what we humans have in common,” Rachel Khong writes in the opening chapter of All About Eggs. It’s fitting, then, that the book takes readers on a journey from 17th-century Dutch writings about an egg’s capacity to “stir up venery” to easy-to-follow recipes for, say, a classic French soufflé omelet or a Turkish breakfast of poached eggs with garlicky yogurt and chili-spiked butter—with many, many stops in between. All About Eggs is a cookbook, but more than that, it’s a compendium of all things egg-related. Khong, the lead author and editor, lives in San Francisco, and local readers will see the city well represented. (She even got Yank Sing to give up its egg tart recipe.)

The book, published in April by Clarkson Potter and cowritten with the editors of the food quarterly Lucky Peach, also serves as a kind of requiem for Lucky Peach itself: The publication recently announced that its May issue would be its penultimate edition. Like the magazine, All About Eggs is wide-ranging, gorgeously illustrated, and a little bit weird. Khong has the juice to pull in contributions from some of the world’s preeminent food scientists, at least one laser physicist, and the god himself, Jacques Pépin—but she also doesn’t shy away from a good egg pun, or even a very bad one. All in all, an “eggscellent” read.


Originally published in the May issue of
San Francisco 

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