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Four New Restaurants We’re Crazy For

We stop by Salsipuedes, Coco Frio, Café du Nord, and Bon Marché.

Steak tartare at Bon Marché.


The new project from Jay Porter (the Half Orange) shares its name with an Ensenada surf break, but its location, on a quiet stretch of Market Street, reflects the growing reach of Oakland’s culinary wave. Meadowood vet Marcus Krauss oversees a menu that draws on Baja and beyond, offering mashups like a tender beef tongue on a grilled cactus paddle with seaweed. The space is snug, and the sea-green walls are emblematic of a mood that’s as laid-back as the beach. 4201 Market St. (at 42nd St.), Oakland, 510-350-7489
—Josh Sens

Coco Frio
Manny Torres (the Palace) is at it again. This time around, the old Savanna Jazz is the backdrop for the chef’s homage to Margarita Island, off the coast of his home country of Venezuela. On a recent evening, his $29 three-course menu moved from briny fish soup to mesquite-grilled salmon with pickled jalapeños. Though there’s not much to the dimly lit atmosphere, a host of killer tropical cocktails strikes the right mood. 2937 Mission St. (near 25th St.), 415-375-1185

Café du Nord
Duboce Triangle
Following a renovation, the subterranean bar and performance venue has reopened with new drinks from the Bon Vivants and a new menu from the Ne Timeas Restaurant Group (Flour + Water, Aatxe). The latter is brief but well considered: A tomato salad, its star ingredient served in juicy chunks and drizzled with buttermilk dressing, is a late-summer tone poem, while Parker House rolls arrive hot in a cast-iron dish. It’s bar food that sets a high bar. 2174 Market St. (near Sanchez St.), 415-471-2969
—Rebecca Flint Marx

Bon Marché
The menu at this Twitter Building brasserie—opened by the abbreviation-loving team behind AQ and TBD—pulls from a broad swath of the French canon, producing smart iterations of classics like salt cod brandade, sautéed veal sweetbreads, and steak tartare. A marble bar and a mosaic tile floor lend a bustling Parisian vibe, but the hours are très Américaines: The place shuts down at 10 p.m., six days a week. 1355 Market St. (near 10th St.), 415-802-1700


Originally published in the November issue of San Francisco

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