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Four New Restaurants We’re Crazy For

We check out Grand Fare Market, Philomena, Tartine Manufactory, and Dabba. 

Tacos at Dabba.

 

Grand Fare Market
Oakland
The second time’s more charming for Doug Washington’s refined food market, which died a quick death late last year but is now reborn with a streamlined menu, lower prices, and a more accessible layout. A labyrinth of counters has been swapped for a single order-and-pay station where you pick up smart, homey dishes like herbed rotisserie chicken and kale salad with apricots and mint. It can all be had to go, but there’s also a courtyard that ranks among Oakland’s sweetest spots to snack. 3265 Grand Ave. (near Elmwood Ave.), 510-899-9610

—Josh Sens

Philomena
Oakland
East Oakland seems an unlikely place for $22 thin-crust pizza. But there it is, topped with corn and zucchini and offered, alongside other pedigreed pies, at this craft-beer-hall-cum-restaurant. Warren Rector (Portal) further embellishes the menu with other fashion-forward items like roasted bone marrow with smoked pork loin and salsa verde and a pork-belly-and-fried-egg sandwich that tastes a lot like breakfast, which, of course, is not to be confused with brunch. Philomena serves that, too, on the weekends. 1801 14th Ave. (at 18th St.), 510-532-2399
—J.S.

Tartine Manufactory
Mission
After more than a year of anticipation, the eagle has landed and laid a golden egg. Located in the Heath Ceramics building, Chad Robertson and Liz Prueitt’s Tartine sequel offers breakfast and lunch menus that feature the requisite pastries (savory Danish, wheat-free flax muffins) along with fare like breakfast sandwiches, seasonal salads, and coddled eggs with trout roe, ‘nduja, and stracciatella cheese. There’s plenty of bread, of course—and plenty of people lined up to eat it. 595 Alabama St. (at 18th St.), 415-487-2600
—Rebecca Flint Marx

Dabba
Financial District
Into the fast-casual fray jumps Dabba, a sleek spot peddling what its owners call “ethnic confusion.” This translates to a short menu of meats or mixed vegetables accented with Indian and Caribbean flavors and served in taco, burrito, or bowl form. It’s fast-casual for a more enlightened time: The meat is free-range and/or heritage and the veg is local. A recent veggie bowl came topped with pineapple chutney, yogurt, herb chutney, pickled carrots, and a tamarind reduction. Well balanced and deeply flavorful, there was nothing confusing about it. 71 Stevenson St. (near 2nd St.), 415-236-3984
—R.F.M.


Originally published in the October issue of
San Francisco 

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