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Magnificent Obsession: Neighbor Bakehouse's Blackberry-Pistachio Croissant

Butter. Flour. Perfection. 

 

Even in a town seething with high-quality breakfast pastry, the blackberry-pistachio croissant that Greg Mindel conjures at Neighbor Bakehouse stands out from its buttery brethren. Twice-baked to crackly crusted perfection, its gossamer innards streaked with blackberry poppy-flower jam and pistachio cream, it provides irrefutable evidence that transcendent joy is, in fact, a by-product of butter and flour.

Although its flavors suggest otherwise, Mindel says that his pastry is really just a pumped-up almond croissant. “I wanted to make something subtly different,” he says. “I like the almond frangipane that’s used classically, but it’s a little too moist. So I tried to do a more marzipan-y, dense, chewy, cookie-like texture.”

Although Neighbor Bakehouse just opened its Dogpatch storefront in January, Mindel has been part of San Francisco’s pastry landscape for years. Prior to starting Neighbor as a wholesale business in 2012, he worked stints at Tartine Bakery, Spruce, and William Werner’s defunct Tell Tale Preserves Co. His blackberry-pistachio croissant is the culmination of years of experience—and a testament to the timelessness of a very good idea. 2343 3rd St. (Near 20th St.)

 

Originally published in the April issue of San Francisco

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 Rebecca Flint Marx at rmarx@modernluxury.com
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