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Magnificent Obsession: Single Thread

At Single Thread, a single apple unravels the senses.

Single Thread's chocolate apple.


There’s a lot to love, and also a lot that scrambles the brain, at Single Thread, the restaurant and inn that Kyle and Katina Connaughton opened in Healdsburg in early December. The 11-course menu is a study in elegance and innovation, to say nothing of extreme seasonality and refinement. But pastry chef Matthew Siciliano’s closing salvo is what I remember most fondly about my dinner there (which, full disclosure, I attended as the restaurant’s guest): a single chocolate apple, filled with whipped chestnut-and-miso cream, Gravenstein apple sorbet, and a chestnut sable, served with apple butter and airbrushed until its skin has turned a shimmery green. You thwack it with a spoon and then try your best to appreciate the ingenious layering of its contents before succumbing to temptation and gobbling up everything in sight. Had the snake presented it to Eve, she would have burned down Eden without a second thought, and no one would have blamed her. 131 North St. (at Center St.), Healdsburg

Originally published in the January issue of
San Francisco 

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