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Magnificent Obsession:The Kale Salad at Brenda’s Meat & Three

It's one of the best in the city.

The kale salad at Brenda's Meat & Three 

 

Let’s be honest: No one goes to Brenda’s Meat & Three for a kale salad. Like its older sibling, Brenda’s French Soul Food, the six-month-old restaurant lures customers with the hot-buttered, deep-fried riches found in chef-owner Brenda Buenviaje’s biscuits and gravy, po’ boys, and Kickass Meatloaf.

Not the most likely place, you might think, to load up on roughage and antioxidants— but in fact, Brenda’s is actually a closet paradise for herbivores: In addition to a roster of vegan and vegetarian sides, the menu boasts what may be the best kale salad in San Francisco. The salad, to be precise, contains both kale and chicory, the latter adding a spicy kick to the former. The greens are tossed with red grapes, toasted almonds, and red onion; showered with feta cheese; and anointed with a sugarcane vinaigrette. At once sweet, salty, bitter, crunchy, and tender, it’s the most compelling (kale) game in town.

And, like almost everything at Brenda’s, it’s served supersize, a meal unto itself. Or two—because while you can’t take the soul food restaurant out of the kale salad, you can take the kale salad out of the soul food restaurant (assuming that you have a to-go box). 919 Divisadero St. (Near Mcallister St.), 415-926-8657

 

Orginally published in the May issue of San Francisco

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