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A New Cookbook Brings State Bird Provisions Home

Dim sum cart not included.

 

The best thing about a meal at State Bird Provisions is how it feels less like a staid and stolid sit-down dinner and more likea free-flowing cocktail party.

Chef-owners Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski start State Bird Provisions: A Cookbook by explaining that the restaurant was “a total accident” in almost every respect, down to the dim sum–cart style of service that helps lend that air of improvisation.

Thanks to the new cookbook, cowritten with food writer JJ Goode and due out from Ten Speed Press on October 24, ambitious amateurs can now bring the party home. The book is a compendium of eclectic, forward-thinking California cooking—carrot mochi salad, buckwheat pancakes topped in the manner of a Chicago-style Italian beef sandwich, and so on.

Many of the recipes, like the one for the restaurant’s eponymous fried quail dish, are elaborate, multiday affairs. But the book also offers quieter pleasures, such as a versatile Caesar salad–inspired aioli, or crunchy chocolate shards you can deploy in a dessert version of a chip-and-dip.

At home, the pushcarts are, of course, optional. But if Brioza and Krasinski—and countless dim sum joints—have taught us anything, it’s that those carts sure do make things fun.

 

Originally published in the October issue of San Francisco 

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