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No Falafel Run Is Complete Without One of These

The sabich at Sababa is a snack to behold.

The sabich, deconstructed.

 

Even in the Bay Area, where the Middle Eastern dining options are not exactly abundant, falafel has become fairly commonplace (good falafel, on the other hand, is another story). The same, unfortunately, cannot be said of the sabich. An invention of Tel Aviv’s Iraqi Jewish community, the sabich is a pita sandwich stuffed with fried eggplant, sliced hard-boiled egg, Israeli salad, hummus, pickles, and tahini sauce. But while the sabich is easy to describe, the sheer joy that comes from it being in your mouth defies simple retelling. And so there is reason to be grateful for the May arrival of Sababa, the fast-casual FiDi spot from the Mercer Restaurant Group (AQ, Bon Marché). The sabich sits high on chef Guy Eshel’s menu of Israeli-inspired street food; you can get it in traditional form on Melissa Davidson’s homemade pita or have the eggplant and egg deconstructed and plopped into a bowl with a trinity of side salads, or on top of a bed of hummus. Sababa spells sabich “sabik,” but however you want to spell it, the immense pleasure found in its crispy-creamy-savory-earthy-spicy depths is unequivocal.

329 Kearny St. (near Pine St.), 415-800-6853


Originally published in the July issue of
San Francisco 

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