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Noticed and Noshed: Scullery

This Tenderloin storefront turns out Welsh rarebit, a British comfort food of the highest order.



Like Brexit and Marmite, Welsh rarebit is one of those U.K. exports that typically elude American comprehension. It’s also called Welsh rabbit, despite its total lack of rabbit, and the origin of the dish’s name is the subject of some dispute. Its ingredients are comparatively straightforward: At its most basic, Welsh rarebit comprises a sauce that’s made with cheese and various other ingredients and then melted on toast.

At Scullery, a wee Tenderloin storefront that Bacchus Kirk owners (and U.K. expats) Sharon and Jason Lindley opened in August, you’ll find Welsh rarebit presented as a hearty slab of seeded sourdough toast from the Midwife & the Baker that’s been shellacked with melted Cabot Creamery aged cheddar. It’s essentially an open-face grilled cheese with a British accent, but if you order it topped with McQuade’s fig-and-ginger chutney, then it turns into a glorious $8 sweet-savory edifice that belongs to no country but that of deep comfort. And heaven knows we could use a hefty helping of that now. 687 Geary Blvd. (near Leavenworth St.), 415-440-4497

Originally published in the December issue of
San Francisco 

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