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Oakland’s Drip Line Bends Cal Cuisine in a New Direction

Singaporean and Malaysian dishes meet seasonal produce.

A coconut-tinged Southeast Asian version of shrimp and grits.

 

These days, the California cuisine umbrella is wide enough to cover almost any locavoristic culinary mash-up. Against that backdrop, this sleek shoe box of a West Oakland coffee shop is the rare eatery that serves food that feels genuinely new: Singaporean and Malaysian dishes recast with seasonal produce and an elegant Cal-cuisine sensibility. So Indonesian beef rendang gets repackaged in taco form, and the shrimp and grits eats like a soupy, coconut-tinged congee and packs a fiery sambal punch.

Sometimes the presentation veers on precious—coddled eggs served in a little glass jar, for instance. But then you dip a toast soldier into the runny yolk and top it off with a smear of sweet, fragrant pandan butter. It’s hard to feel anything other than very, very satisfied.
1940 Union St., Unit 21 (Near 21st St.), Oakland, 510-922-8270


Originally published in the June issue of
San Francisco 

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