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An Old-Is-New Butcher Shop Serves Up Prime Meat for the Holidays

A novel tradition from San Francisco’s newest old-fashioned butcher shop.

SLIDESHOW

A butcher prepares a pork shoulder roast.

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The display case at Baron’s is filled with “107” ribs in the process of dry-aging, each one tagged with a customer’s name.

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For the holidays, resourceful home cooks might dream of dry-aging their own rib roast—but who has that much room in their fridge?

Consider Baron’s Quality Meats & Seafood, where, for around $500 (at $14.99 a pound), a cash-flush carnivore can buy a rack of beef that gets aged and stored for however long it takes to eat it—as a whole roast or, if you prefer, one custom-cut steak at a time. This past spring, Baron’s took over the space formerly occupied by Drewes Bros. Meats, a Noe Valley institution for 128 years.

Owner David Samiljan, who opened the first Baron’s in Alameda in 2005, knows how to play the small-town part, with his gray beard, apron, and old-fashioned brow-line specs. He’s also the kind of meat nerd who will talk your ear off about aging beef. The cut he uses is the “107 rib modified,” which, once butchered, yields a prime rib roast and two thick cowboy steaks. Last holiday season, he sold a literal ton of the stuff.

Prior planning is a prerequisite: Samiljan recommends letting the meat age in the shop for six weeks. Think of it as both an investment in an old-is-new neighborhood butcher shop and your holiday-party prime rib.
1706 Church St. (Near 29th St.), 415-654-5449

 

Originally published in the November issue of San Francisco 

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