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A Pie for Everyone in the World

Theorita’s Thanksgiving pie menu offers up a slice of tradition, both old and new.

Clockwise from top left: Coffee sweet potato cream; lemon lime-leaf meringue; Dutch apple crumble; brown sugar pumpkin; bourbon chocolate walnut.

 

In the two months since Angela Pinkerton opened Theorita, the pastry chef has unlocked at least one achievement that would make any proprietor of an old-fashioned diner smile: “People have been eating pie for breakfast,” she boasts. The desserts were always meant to be the star at Pinkerton’s Divisadero Street luncheonette, where for Thanksgiving, she says, “I wish we could bake all the pies for everyone in the world.” Barring that, Theorita will at least accept orders for its roster of holiday pies ($34 each) starting the day after Halloween.

Pinkerton’s own love of pie, and the shop’s name, stems from her maternal grandmother, Theorita, who kept an orchard at her northeastern Ohio home and made apple pie every Thanksgiving—so of course Pinkerton will offer a classic, streusel-topped Dutch apple crumble. Those seeking something more unconventional can opt for the coffee sweet potato cream pie or, even bolder, the lemon lime-leaf meringue, which puts two kinds of citrus-flavored custard on top of a cookie crust—the start, perhaps, of a tangy new turkey-day tradition. 834 Divisadero St. (near McAllister St.), 415-416-6980

 

Originally published in the November issue of San Francisco 

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