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Rapid Reviews

Four reviews of new restaurants to try right now. 

Seared foie gras at Haven.

Seared foie gras at Haven. 

 

Haven
Jack London Square
Following a quick reboot, Daniel Patterson’s Oakland restaurant has a new family-style format. Under chef Charlie Parker’s able guidance, its prix fixe menu is a stunner, offering reasonably portioned grub (plump Monterey sardines, house-baked bread) that’s both comforting and inspired. While plenty of restaurants trumpet their seasonality and housemade comestibles, Haven is one of the rare ones where substance matches style. Rebecca Flint Marx 44 Webster St. (at Embarcadero West), Oakland, 510-663-4440

BDK Restaurant & Bar
Union Square
Located next to the lobby of Hotel Monaco, this collaboration between chef Heather Terhune and barman Kevin Diedrich is, fittingly, a consummate hotel restaurant. The decor—black-and- white tiles, gray walls—is handsome but staid, and the food is ensconced in the American comfort canon, with creamy deviled eggs and meat-heavy entrées like a pot roast. It’s pleasing if unchallenging fare—eating it, you could be almost anywhere. R.F.M. 501 Geary St. (at Taylor St.), 415-292-0101

Jersey
SoMa
The latest effort from the Rosenthal brothers is an homage to their home state of New Jersey that hinges on pizzas with your choice of Jersey- or California- style crust. There’s the requisite chopped salad, but also a delicate beef carpaccio with crispy artichokes, and grilled asparagus with bottarga. The Rosenthals might be East Coast boys, but their food sensibility ultimately pledges allegiance to San Francisco. Sara Deseran 145 2nd st. (at Minna St.), 415-912-1502

Tigerlily
Berkeley Indian cooking gets a California spin at this Gourmet Ghetto mashup. Chef Joel Lamica (Pizzaiolo) makes ample use of aromatics from owner Deepak Aggarwal’s East Bay Spice Company in such busy hybrids as squid ink–blackened naan with braised duck, salsa verde, hazelnuts, fried ginger, and carrot purée. Between the batiks draping the ceiling and the trendy cocktail bar, the space is part hippie dorm room, part tech-money hang. Josh Sens 1513 Shattuck Ave. (near Vine St.), 510-540-7900

 

Originally published in the June issue of San Francisco

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