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Short Orders: More New Spots to Try

We check out Fiorella, Onsen, Flores, and the Saratoga.

Hamachi crudo at the Saratoga.


Outer Richmond
Last August, Fiorella got a new chef named Dante Cecchini and a new menu that journeyed far beyond the restaurant’s signature Neapolitan-style pizzas. They’re now accompanied by entrées like a crisp pan-seared Mount Lassen trout and an array of seasonal salads like a plate of winter citrus trimmed with almonds, dill, and ricotta. It’s the kind of dish that transforms Fiorella from a neighborhood pizza joint into a neighborhood joint. 2339 Clement St. (near 25th St.), 415-340-3049
—Rebecca Flint Marx

Husband-and-wife team Sunny Simmons and Caroline Smith have brought a Japanese-inspired bathhouse to the Tenderloin, and with it a tiny Japanese tearoom serving a short but fulfilling menu of simple, homey dishes. A single grilled sardine comes curled around a blob of uni butter, while mushroom dumplings float in a rich katsuobushi broth with cabbage and yams. After soaking at the baths, it’s a bowl you want to drown yourself in. 466 Eddy St. (near Hyde St.), 415-441-4987 

The latest project from Adriano Paganini (Super Duper Burgers, Beretta) ventures to Mexico with a menu inspired by traditional family recipes. The work of chef Alejandro Morgan, it traffics in dishes both familiar—guacamole, fish tacos—and less so, such as sikil p’ak, an immensely flavorful dip of pumpkin seeds, habañero, and tomato. Many preparations, such as a dry-chili-marinated whole branzino, boast similar vibrance, though others, like a shrimp cocktail, fall victim to heavy-handed sauces. But the tortillas are fresh, the drinks are strong, and, as at any Paganini joint, the vibe is merry. 2030 Union St. (near Buchanan St.), 415-796-2926

The Saratoga
New neighborhood, same tony supper club intentions for Bacchus Management, the sultans of swank behind Michelin-starred Spruce in Presidio Heights. Here in the Tenderloin, they’ve angled for a refuge of comfort food and cocktails that feels a world removed from its surroundings. A ground-floor bar romances you with spirits; below it lies a dining room with a menu of lusty dishes like chicken liver toasts and a seared New York steak, blanketed in cognac-peppercorn sauce. It’s familiar food, prepared with finesse, and goes down as smoothly as a highball. 1000 Larkin St. (near Post St.), 415-932-6464
—Josh Sens


Originally published in the February issue of San Francisco 

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