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The Best Burger You'll Ever Eat Is Vegan

And at a bowling alley.

The veggie burger is having something of a moment. Once dismissed as a desiccated soy puck whose allure fell between that of a speeding ticket and a colonoscopy, it has evolved into a sort of Trojan horse of culinary ingenuity, as likely to harbor tamari-soaked almonds as heirloom vegetables.

The specimen served at mission bowling club takes its inspiration from the south of France: its patty is a panisse, a fried chickpea-flour cake common to the region. Mission Bowling’s version, though dutifully deep- fried, is improbably delicate and creamy. Shot through with edamame, kale, green onion, and roasted shiitake mushrooms, it’s adorned with a crimson smear of red pepper sambal, creamy guacamole, and a thicket of sautéed fennel, all plopped between two pieces of bread.

The result is equal parts garden party and beer sponge, a lucky strike for vegans and just about everyone else. 3176 17th st. (Near South Van Ness Ave.), 415-863-2695



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