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The Juhu Beach Club Cookbook Celebrates the Dearly-Departed Oakland Eatery

Raise a glass of Sassy Lassi.

 

Preeti Mistry has never been shy about saying what she thinks. Even so, The Juhu Beach Club Cookbook, which she cowrote with food writer Sarah Henry, is a disarmingly frank entry into the cookbook-memoir genre that goes deep on racism in fine dining, Mistry’s frustrating stint on Top Chef, and, of course, her brand of California-inflected Indian cooking.

Published by Running Press at the end of October, the cookbook is a celebration of one of Oakland’s most distinctive eateries, but it also functions as a requiem of sorts: Mistry recently announced that she’s selling her Telegraph Avenue space and that the restaurant will morph into some as-yet-unpublicized form. If we are to be doswaffleless for an extended time—which is to say, without access to Mistry’s fusion of a Belgian-style waffle and a South Indian dosa—then at least we have this cookbook, and those of us with the patience for a three-day batter-making process can try our hand at making a batch at home.

Recipes for Juhu classics like kid-friendly butter chicken, curry-leaf shrimp curry, and cumin-spiked Sassy Lassi are quite accessible. And the dozen or so custom spice mixes alone are worth the price of admission. “In many ways,” Mistry writes, “four years into the restaurant, I feel like I’ve only just cracked the surface of what we can do.… Stay tuned.”

 

Originally published in the November issue of San Francisco 

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