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Fowl Winter

Duck for two as a culinary art form hits its stride around town this winter.

BIG BIRD
Chef de Cuisine Brad Deboy’s 6-pound Rohan duck for two at Blue Duck Tavern in the West End

Blue Duck Tavern
Chef de Cuisine Brad Deboy set out to make the best duck in town and has come up with a stunner. The process takes a week, starting with a 6-pound Rohan duck from the Hudson Valley. It gets brined, scalded and brushed with homemade Worcestershire sauce. It’s then dried for several days. After roasting, Deboy glazes the bird with raw honey and spices like coriander and fennel seed; blasts it in a hot oven to deep-mahogany crispness; and presents it family-style. Duck for two $110, 1201 24th St. NW

The Source
When chef Scott Drewno says the whole duck, he means it: He presents his lacquered, roasted duck at the table with the head on. Once the oohs and ahhs abate, the bird is whisked to the kitchen and returns in two iterations. The breast meat is served in deboned slices ready to be stuffed in steamed bao and dressed with an array of condiments that include garlic hoisin sauce, pickled daikon and Chinese mustard. The leg and wing joints are wok-fired and served in black-bean sauce. Duck for two $74, 575 Pennsylvania Ave. NW

Kapnos
Insiders know that Wednesday night is duck night at this 14th Street hot spot. Chef George Pagonis slathers the bird with a honey-orange glaze and spit-roasts it until the breast is done. Then he breaks down the bird and confits the legs in duck fat until tender. A final trip to the grill crisps everything before serving. The duck comes with seasonal vegetables and orzotto. Half duck $28, whole $56, 2201 14th St. NW